Ojibwe Woven Mats Continue Link between North Shore and Isle Royale – Minnesota

Ojibwe Woven Mats Continue Link between North Shore and Isle Royale – Minnesota

Courtesy of Grand Portage National Monument
Staff from Isle Royale National Park transported five hand-woven mats, called anaakanan in the Ojibwe, or Anishinaabe language, made from cedar and sweetgrass, to Minnesota’s Grand Portage National Monument.

 

Handwoven mat made of dyed cedar bark strips; black, red, and natural plaid check pattern with medicine eye design. The mat was possibly crafted by Tchi-ki-wis Linklater in 1930. The mat is eight feet long and four feet eight inches wide. (Photo courtesy National Park Service.)                        Jack Linklater and Tchi-ki-wis (Helen), photo courtesy Warren/Anderson Collection, Isle Royale National Park. 

 

Some of the mats were made in the 1920s and 1930s by Helen Robinson Linklater, Tchi-ki-wis, an Ojibwe woman originally from the Lac La Croix area. Tchi-ki-wis and her husband operated a fishery on Isle Royale between 1927 and 1933, and Tchi-ki-wis often sold mats to tourists. The Linklaters are thought to be the last Native Americans to work and live on Isle Royale.

When the park was formed in the 1940s, island cabin-owner Frank Warren donated an extensive collection of indigenous items to the National Park Service, including the anaakanan. They will now be on an indefinite loan to Grand Portage.

“We wanted all the mats together in one place, especially if we find out that Linklater made them all,” Isle Royale National Park’s chief of Interpretation and Cultural Resources Liz Valencia told WTIP. “It could be the largest collection of hand woven mats by one person in the Great Lakes, or perhaps North America.”

Grand Portage park staff and band members welcome the anaakanan to Grand Portage National Monument on Sept. 11, 2020.
(National Park Service.)

The mats were welcomed to Grand Portage by park staff and band members after a 60-mile voyage aboard the park’s 22-foot boat Wolf from the park’s summer headquarters on Mott Island. Tribal council member John Morrin provided a culturally-appropriate reception. They will join another dozen mats in Grand Portage’s collection, including others by Tchi-ki-wis, four of them also from Isle Royale’s collection.

Experts say the artfully woven mats and their history exemplify the connection between Ojibwe people, who have lived along the North Shore for centuries, and the large island 20 miles off shore.

Last year, the indigenous significance of Isle Royale was recognized by the federal government as a Traditional Cultural Property, noting that people had been living on and visiting the site since long before European immigration.

“[The collection] documents historic connections, and continued modern connections to Isle Royale,” Valencia told WTIP. “This connection is still there today and it’s very strong.”

Detail of a woven mat. (National Park Service)

The mats recently loaned to Grand Portage were made primarily from the inner bark of northern white cedar trees, with one being made from sweetgrass. They were carefully prepared for their journey from Isle Royale to Grand Portage. Park staff consulted with National Park Service experts about the best methods for transport, rolling four of the mats that were flexible enough, and transporting one flat in a cardboard case.

Woven mats served both form and function. They were used on the floors of cabins or tents, as well as when working outdoors. But they also feature traditional designs with important significance.

“Designs were really important, intricate part of those mats,” Valencia said. “They weren’t just making mats to use on the floor, they were works of art.”

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NYT: The Newest Thing in Fashion? Old Clothes

NYT: The Newest Thing in Fashion? Old Clothes

Credit…Daniel Jackson, via Display Copy

UNBUTTONED By 

It has a well-known model/personality on the cover: Paloma Elsesser, the plus-size model, inclusivity champion and British Vogue favorite. It has glossy shoots by famous photographers: Katerina Jebb and Mark Borthwick. And it has clothing credits that include Helmut Lang, Paul Smith, Adidas and Balenciaga.

In one way, however, it is not typical at all. The credits for “where to buy” include the Salvation Army, Etsy and eBay. Display Copy may be a new magazine, but, as the editor’s letter says, it “doesn’t feature a single new fashion item.” Every item of clothing it pictures and promotes is vintage. Secondhand. Thrifted. Pre-loved. For resale.

 

“The idea was to make used clothes desirable,” said Brynn Heminway, the editor of the magazine, which will have a constant stream of mostly shoppable online content, and will be published twice a year as a limited-edition collectible. “Because I honestly feel nothing new is sustainable. Everyone told me I would never get any advertising support, or anyone to write about it.” But it turned out, the timing was perfect.

Credit…Amy Troost, via Display Copy
Credit…Carlton Davis, via Display Copy

After years of pushing only new, new, new (while behind the scenes scouring flea markets for inspiration), fashion brands are beginning, finally, to publicly embrace the old. Upcycling is reaching critical mass.

It may be the most concrete shift in the fashion system to come out of the pandemic: the one real product to emerge from all of the industry talk in May and June about change and sustainability and value systems.

The week before Display Copy arrived, Miu Miu introduced Upcycled by Miu Miu: a limited collection of vintage dresses from the 1940s through the ’70s that have been tweaked, refashioned and otherwise jazzed up for a contemporary customer. The week before that, Levi’s unveiled Levi’s Secondhand, a buyback and resale program that will allow customers to sell their old denim to Levi’s so it can be repaired, reinvented and resold (or recycled).

They are both following in the footsteps of Maison Margiela, which put upcycling at the center of its creative process back in February when it introduced the Recicla line (Italian for “recycle”) — a collection built on garments the designer John Galliano’s team finds in charity shops and then deconstructs and reworks — and has since doubled down on the idea. Which itself came in the wake of Patagonia’s Worn Wear program, a pioneer in the field.

Credit…via Miu Miu
Credit…Rachael Wang
In early October, Gucci announced a partnership with the RealReal, the resale site, for a Gucci-specific second life store on the platform, just as Stella McCartney and Burberry did before it. And speaking of Ms. McCartney, she has created a new plan to upcycle her own samples and pieces that were made but never put into production — clothes that had been gathering dust in a storage closet or waiting to be sold off cheaply at sample sale. The upcycling will include adding some extra embellishment and handwritten notes on the tags and offering the pieces as one-off quasi-couture.

She is also plotting to reissue her most popular former styles, as is Michael Kors, who last season remade a cape from a fall 1999 collection and recently included a dress from spring 1991, originally worn by Anna Wintour to Grace Coddington’s 50th birthday party at Indochine, in his spring 2021 collection.

Add to that Cate Blanchett recycling her wardrobe during the Venice Film Festival in September.

Credit…Joel C. Ryan/Invision, via Associated Press

“We’re just trying to put the spotlight on wonderful things that last,” Mr. Kors said in explaining his collection during a Zoom presentatio

That was, it turned out, a short-term way of thinking that reeked of insecurity, relying on freneticism and white noise. It may have boosted sales, but it also led to not only a glut of stuff but also an erosion of the value proposition. After all, if the company that made a garment didn’t think it was worth hanging on to for more than a few weeks, why should the person who buys it?

Once that confidence and understanding is lost, it is unclear how it ever comes back. Upcycling may be the answer.

“I started being a fashion designer because I never found anything I liked,” said Mrs. Prada, who hates throwing clothes away and has a whole separate apartment where she keeps her old wardrobe as well as her mother’s.

“Before that, for 10 years I dressed in vintage,” she continued. “I always asked myself why I liked it so much, and I think it’s the history. Each dress represents a person, a piece of a life. For me, the past always had an incredible value because anything you learn comes from there.”

Yet not that long ago, during a discussion in early 2019 for Muse magazine about fashion’s role in the climate crisis, I asked Marco Bizzarri, the chief executive of Gucci, why his brand didn’t take back its own clothes once consumers were done with them so they could be upcycled and resold. Why, though fashion was increasingly grappling with the environmental impact of materials at the start of a product’s life, there wasn’t as much focus on its end of life, or second life. At the time, he said it was too complicated and systems weren’t in place.

Credit…via Batsheva

So what changed? First, the fact that, early in the pandemic when countries were in lockdown, many mills were not working, so designers had to turn to deadstock (fabric left over from previous collections and a word that in itself reflects the industry’s former attitude) to create products.

This helped break the “old” barrier, said Batsheva Hay, who used her leftover fabric to make a series of limited-edition “housedresses.” Traditionally, she said, fashion had been “afraid of anything last season,” even though consumers have positive associations with the word “sustainability.”

Add to this the realization that consumers themselves were, as Giorgio Belloli, the chief commercial and sustainability officer of Farfetch, said, “changing their behavior and starting to see more value in their items.” (This in turn prompted Farfetch to expand its Second Life program, which allows customers to offer old handbags for on-site credit in Britain, the United States and several other countries in Europe.) They’re changing because of pandemic-induced economic factors and the understanding, no longer debated, that the responsibility to address the landfill problem lies not just with fashion producers, but also shoppers.

All of which has helped bolster the much heralded growth of the resale market, which ThredUp has predicted will hit $64 billion by 2024, with the online secondhand market growing 69 percent between 2019 and 2021. And the fact that increasingly, Gen Z, or what Ms. Heminway of Display Copy calls “the Depop generation,” has turned away from the waste of fast fashion and, priced out of even contemporary fashion, moved toward thrifting.

Credit…Daniel Jackson, via Display Copy

(Whether they will celebrate the fashion embrace of their shopping strategy is a different question; often, when the older generation co-opts the behavior of the young, the young get grossed out and move on.)

The result is a powerful combination of forces pushing fashion, and how we think about clothes, in a new direction. Though perhaps the most powerful force of all is self-interest — and not just commercial.

It turns out that the challenge of working with old stuff, of reinventing it, whether with technology or design (or both), has opened up whole new realms of intellectual and aesthetic possibility in the way that problem-solving often does. As Display Copy reads, “our intention is to celebrate the ingenuity we find in ourselves when we are determined to preserve the things we love.”

Mrs. Prada said working on Upcycled Miu Miu had been creatively inspiring. In a podcast about his Recicla initiative, Mr. Galliano called it “restorative.”

Who wouldn’t want to buy that right about now?

 

Vanessa Friedman is The Times’s fashion director and chief fashion critic. She was previously the fashion editor of the Financial Times. @VVFriedman

 

Related: The Best Corner Store (MSP)

North Loop Neighborhood Association: An Outdoor & Social Distanced Presentation of Jurassic Park

North Loop Neighborhood Association: An Outdoor & Social Distanced Presentation of Jurassic Park

Halloween in the North Loop sponsored by the North Loop Neighborhood Association:  With a warmer forecast for Saturday, it’s perfect to join your neighbors for a free outdoor movie & candy too at Target Field Station…bring a chair, blanket and a mask and enjoy!

When: Saturday, October 31 • Showtime is 6pm

Where: Target Field Station • 5th Ave North and 5th Street North, Minneapolis

Image may contain: text that says 'BARGBI HALLOWEEN THE NORTH LOOP An outdoor/ social distanced presentation of: Jurassic Park WITH HALLOWEEN CANDY JURASSIC PARK Saturday, October 31 Showtime is 6p Target Field Station. 5th ave N and 5th St N'

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Exhibit: “2020… Cancelled“

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Exhibit: “2020… Cancelled“

Pictured: When The World Changed – 40” X 30” Oil on Canvas – by Mary Calengor
The typed message, “2020… Cancelled“ and the crumpled newspaper tell the story of our current situation, frustrations while life as we know it has come to a halt.
The typewriter represents a historical milestone that affected the world in the same ways but ways far more positive. This marvelous invention connected us, changed the economy, and provided opportunity in the workplace for women. Hopefully we shall emerge a stronger, smarter, more compassionate society.
This painting shall be a reminder of these strange times and symbolic of positive changes that are a result of the difficulty we are experiencing today. Artists Rx: Responses during COVID-19 features work created by Minnesota artists since the pandemic started. The artworks — many rooted in nature, others finding inspiration from the built environment — are joined by the desire to find connection and joy, often amid isolation and fear.
The exhibit is open now through Jan. 6, 2021 in the Reedy Gallery and features work from Mary Calengor, Susan Davies, Leanne Hanson, Katy Noun and Darren Terpstra.

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

Make Thanksgiving Holiday Effortless: Revival Smoked Meats Take & Bake – St. Paul/Minneapolis

Make Thanksgiving Holiday Effortless: Revival Smoked Meats Take & Bake – St. Paul/Minneapolis

Thinking ahead?

Let Revival make your Thanksgiving Holiday effortless! This year we will be offering a variety of Thanksgiving favorites for take and bake. You can view our take and bake menu and place an order by clicking order online at your desired location below. You’ll be able to pick-up your order on November 24th or 25th between 11 am and 9 pm. If you have any questions about our Thanksgiving offerings or would rather order over the phone please call us at our Nicollet Ave and Selby Ave locations. We look forward to being a part of your holiday!

 

REVIVAL SAINT PAUL

525 SELBY AVE · SAINT PAUL, MINNESOTA 55102 · 651-340-2355

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  • FRI – SAT: 11AM – 10PM

Menu / Reservations Order Online


REVIVAL MINNEAPOLIS

4257 NICOLLET AVE · MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 55409 · 612-345-4516

  • SUN – THU: 11AM – 9PM
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REVIVAL SMOKED MEATS

KEG AND CASE MARKET · 928 WEST SEVENTH STREET · SAINT PAUL, MINNESOTA 55102 · 651-321-2508

  • MON – WED: 4PM – 10PM
  • THU – SUN: 11AM – 10PM

Menu / Order-Online

 

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