North Designer: Maria Stanley A/W 21 Sweater Collection

North Designer: Maria Stanley A/W 21 Sweater Collection

BRUSHED BERET | mushroom

It’s sweater season!

A refined collection of knits in collaboration with Peruvian artisans,
crafted from the softest alpaca and merino wool blend, a brushed texture.

 

MAX SWEATER | mushroom

Knit by Peruvian artisans from the softest alpaca yarn and merino wool blend with a brushed texture and mock neckline. Hits around the hip with sleeves intentionally hitting at the wrist. A relaxed fit.

MAX SWEATER | radish | earth dyed

BEANIE | noir

MAX SWEATER | noir

About

Maria Stanley is built on the ideals of holistic lifestyle which includes building an everlasting wardrobe, without over-consumption, and a focus on quality, purpose, with a sophisticated awareness detail.

All products are constructed with the highest quality materials, sourced from all over the world, and are made to last a lifetime. Each season offers new variations to refresh the wardrobe and not replace it.

Maria launched her label in 2016.

Photos: Michael J Spear

What the Return of the Skinny Brow Really Means for our Beauty Looks!

What the Return of the Skinny Brow Really Means for our Beauty Looks!

ANDREAS RENTZ GETTY IMAGES

Hold the tweezers: experts explain the rise of streamlined brows and whether they’re right for you too.

Harpers Bazaar: For the last decade, full, bushy brows have been upheld as the North Star to aim for with one’s beauty look. Heavily influenced by millennial models and reality stars, from Cara Delevingne to the Kardashians, the brow industry boomed thanks to this staple beauty trend. But now that Gen Z is helping to set the beauty agenda – and their nostalgic obsession with the Nineties and Noughties knows no bounds – thin brows are back in the limelight.

Laurretta Power, national brow artist and head of artistry at Benefit Cosmetics, concurs, telling us: “People are starting to favour thinner brows, much to the dismay of all the people who saw this trend the first time around and had terrible trouble trying to grow them back.” She, too, cites the zeitgeist: “Gen Z are obsessed with Nineties and Noughties films, music and fashion, and make-up looks from the decades are going crazy on TikTok,” That, alongside 20-something models like Bella Hadid and Adwoa Aboah sporting streamlined brows (and looking incredible for it) makes the revival far from surprising.

skinny brow trend 2021
VICTOR VIRGILEGETTY IMAGES

It’s not just anecdotal, either. A new study by e-tailer LookFantastic analysed various metrics like social engagement and Google search volumes to establish this year’s key beauty trends, and found that skinny eyebrows to currently be the third biggest (behind the similarly nostalgic brown lip liner with gloss, and heavy black liner), with a 450 per cent increase in searches for the look.

MAC’s director of make-up artistry Terry Barber feels that it’s a case of counterculture beginning to snowball. The beauty visionary and trend authority tells Bazaar: “The return of the skinny brow is probably another way beauty is trying to rid itself of the generic, stencilled details that became so prevalent in the last decade when there seemed to be only one brow shape that was meant to fit all.” The ‘Instagram brow’, if you will.

In the last decade there seemed to be only one brow shape that was meant to fit all

Those tired of homogeneous beauty have been experimental with their brows. “We’ve seen a lot of manipulation of brows to look anything but classic, from the futuristically soaped-up, boyishly pushed the wrong way, or even bleached out to skin colour – much favoured by the Hackney hipsters,” Barber explains. “But there is currently a new appreciation of the arched elegance that a more streamlined, pencil-thin brow can give to the eye shape, with lots of references to the early supermodels and the Nineties wild-child coolness of a young Kate Moss or Drew Barrymore.” Indeed, there’s a certain effortlessness that makes the slim brow feel very appealing right now.

diamonds are forever show
DAVE BENETTGETTY IMAGES

The focus for 2021’s version of thinner brows is that there isn’t one

“The rule book on how your brows are meant to frame your face has pretty much been thrown out of the window,” Barber adds. “Now it’s about achieving the right attitude.” Essentially, the only non-rule rule in beauty today is ‘you do you’.

Vanita Parti, CEO and founder of Blink Brow Bar tells us, “If you have slim brows, it’s time to celebrate them”. To get the best out of skinny brows, she recommends using a precision brow pencil “to create density and length in your brows,” with a clear brow gel “to sleek them together and lift”.

But if you don’t have naturally slim brows, she says to be cautious of deliberately removing hairs for the sake of it.

“Everyone suits a different style, and balance is key,” Parti continues. “There is a science to getting the right shape, and brow mapping helps to work this out.”

Whether thick or thin, Parti feels that the overall shape should take priority in order to best balance your facial features. She suggests following this formula using a pencil: “It’s simple, place the pencil at the edge of your nose and where it hits your eyebrow is where they should start. Then swivel it from your nose to your iris – this is where the arch should be positioned. Finally, swivel again from your nose to the end of your eye and where the pencil hits the brow is where they end. It is also useful to take a concealer pencil and mark the boundaries.”

Once you (or the pros) have shaped your brows then decide whether you want a higher or flatter arch, or whether you want to style them sleek or brushed-up.

Power agrees that bespoke is best. Key to the various brow services at Benefit Cosmetics is the consultation. “We talk you through the process and advise the best brow styles for your face and how to maintain them,” she says.

If only we’d had such a service in the Nineties.

skinny brow trend 2021
DOMINIQUE CHARRIAUGETTY IMAGES
Lip Lab by Bite @MOA – Bloomington, MN

Lip Lab by Bite @MOA – Bloomington, MN

 We went inside the new experiential and customizable lipstick bar now open at MOA.

 

You’ll Probably Find Your New Fav’ Coat On T.V. This Fall

You’ll Probably Find Your New Fav’ Coat On T.V. This Fall

Mabel in her special coat.

Photo: Craig Blankenhorn/Courtesy of Hulu

Millennial Mabel stands out from the Upper West Side old guard Charles-Haden Savage (Steve Martin, as a former cop show star) and Oliver Putnam (Martin Short, playing a washed-up Broadway producer) with her bold outerwear.

“We decided that her costumes were going to be a type of armor for her. So we looked at a lot of big coats and heavy treaded boots,” says Covarrubias, echoing Charles’s and Oliver’s discussion as they trail Mabel and Tie Dye Guy from Central Park to Long Island: “We had so many cool boots. So many cool coats.”

There’s a lot of color and texture, perhaps best epitomized in the cropped look from the premiere. (Covarrubias is somewhat an expert in creating an enviable coat moment: She also treated us to Francesca’s striped Isabel Marant topper in season two of “Master of None.”) “Some animals will use a really bright color to be like, ‘Hey, don’t f*ck with me,'” she says. “That was the idea.”

Do not f*ck with Mabel.

Photo: Craig Blankenhorn/Courtesy of Hulu

Meanwhile, over in Queens, on season two of the hot priest thriller series “Evil,” psychologist and mom of four Kristen Bouchard (Katja Herbers) is pushed to her limit at the neighborhood grocery store by a douchebag line-cutter. Layered up in a cropped biker jacket with faux shearling trim, she responds by introducing a bag of frozen french fries to the man-splainer’s face — while her consistently unsupportive husband looks on in shock.

“I wanted her to look super tough and super modern,” says Dan Lawson, about selecting the rugged French Connection piece (below). “That was also to contrast with her husband, who didn’t look threatening — or tough.”

The costume designer is accustomed to dressing his Chicago-set (but N.Y.C.-filmed) casts of “The Good Wife” and “The Good Fight” in suitably chic layers, and relies on statement coats to express often conflicting layers (sorry) of personality and intentions.

Really, do not f*ck with Kristen (Katja Herbers) in 'Evil.' (Just ask the guy lying on the floor.)

Really, do not f*ck with Kristen (Katja Herbers) in ‘Evil.’ (Just ask the guy lying on the floor.)

Photo: Elizabeth Fisher/Courtesy of CBS

Matching her pragmatic and responsible nature, Kristen usually wears polished, neutral wool coats, while her free-spirited mother (and cool grandma), Sheryl (Christine Lahti, below) stirs up trouble in sleek leather jackets and amped-up motos.

Sheryl (Christine Lahti, right), what are you up to on 'Evil?'

Sheryl (Christine Lahti, right), what are you up to on ‘Evil?’

Photo: Elizabeth Fisher/Courtesy of CBS

A notable coat can also serve as a flex — case in point: Nora (Awkwafina)’s literal dream puffer in the premiere of “Awkwafina is Nora From Queens.”

Before Grandma (Lori Tan Chinn) shakes her awake, Nora, deep in REM sleep, visualizes herself on a brisk walk in the park with old friend and cutie Daniel (Jaboukie Young-White), wearing a vibrant puffy coat from Farm Rio (below). The contrasting floral and chevron prints, plus mix of nylon and fleece panels, speak to Nora’s excitable nature and innate creativity. But, ultimately, it “heightens Nora’s personality with the idea that she now has money,” says costume designer Staci Greenbaum. “We want to go with something that felt really right and outlandish, but that above what Nora’s typical price point would be.”

Nora (Awkwafina) in her dream coat with Daniel (Jaboukie Young-White).

Photo: Zach Dilgard/Courtesy of Comedy Central

Unlike a classic New York City black or neutral-hued coat, Nora’s puffer has a very specific and showboat-y mix of patterns and textures, in a way that intentionally doesn’t go with everything, furthering the power play. Plus, the association with a statement coat can help one create a lasting impression — and leave a legacy.

“Think of all the iconic characters, like in ‘The Matrix.’ Coats just make you look badass,” says Salvador Perez, the mastermind behind all of Mindy Kaling‘s colorful — while not very N.Y.C. — dress coats in her Manhattan-set, Los Angeles-filmed “The Mindy Project.”

Charles-Haden, Mabel in her detective trench and Oliver leave the building.

Screenshot: ‘Only Murders in the Building’ on Hulu

Plus, outerwear is the initial step in making a strong first impression. “The coat is the very first thing you see [on a person]. Somebody enters your house, what do they have on? They have their coat,” says Lawson, emphasizing three seasons of coat-requiring weather on the East Coast. “It’s a coat-a-thon. There are episodes where everybody’s in coats the whole time.”

With Covid-19 protocols in place as filming picked back up last fall, the proliferation of outerwear on-screen actually reflects real life: Similar to our pivots to park hangs and outdoor dining, shows now film more scenes out in the elements, so costume designers needed to factor functionality and warmth into their storytelling.

“It was freezing when we were shooting,” says Covarrubias of Mabel’s “priceless” wool coat. “We wanted to make sure [Gomez] was nice and cozy, so we tried to get a coat that would be really warm.”

Lawson recalls that absolutely terrifying “E is for Elevator” episode of “Evil,” which included a ghost tour guide wearing a long wool cape: “People were in the coats the whole time, so they really had to be warm and look cool and interesting.”

Devi (Maitreyi Ramakrishnan) spells it out for Paxton.

Photo: Isabella B. Vosmikova/Courtesy of Netflix

In addition to buying second-hand, upcycling is a way to create a one-of-a-kind statement jacket, while practicing sustainability. In season two of “Never Have I Ever,” Devi (Maitreyi Ramakrishnan) attempts to right a wrong by making herself vulnerable and asking Paxton (Darren Barnet) to the big dance. She approaches his locker in a jean jacket covered in symbolic pins and patches, including an eye for good luck, a dagger (because Devi will Devi) and a bedazzled heart worn literally on her sleeve.

“I wanted it to be a unique piece that maybe Devi made herself. She didn’t go out and buy it. She puts it together herself,” says Perez, who sourced patches and embellishments from the Los Angeles Garment District to customize a Levi’s jacket. “I wanted her to be bold and stand out and feel confident in that scene.” Because what’s more self-expressive and empowering than wearing something no one else has?

“It’s less about fashion and more about psychology,” says Covarrubias, who has an impressive and ever-growing outerwear collection of her own. “We’re about dressing for how you feel.”

Click through the gallery for a few statement coats inspired by our favorite T.V. characters:

Golden Magazine: A Student-Run Lifestyle Magazine at the University of Minnesota

Golden Magazine: A Student-Run Lifestyle Magazine at the University of Minnesota

Fashion Week MN: Did you know that one of our shows, Golden Runway, was produced by a student group at the University of Minnesota?
Golden Magazine is a student-run fashion and lifestyle magazine at the University of Minnesota. Founded last spring, Golden provides a creative outlet on campus for students interested in pursuing a career in media or related industries. The organization focuses on pushing the boundaries of typical fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content through a lens of what’s relevant to communities at the University of Minnesota and the broader Twin Cities. The staff produces one digital magazine each semester, along with a steady stream of content across their blog and social media channels. Recently, Golden has focused on broadening their community involvement and building relationships with local businesses and individuals – which is ultimately what led them to apply for a producer slot in this fall’s Fashion Week MN.Golden is made up of an abundance of creative and dedicated young students who cannot wait to share their hard work and talent at this fall’s Golden Runway show. Check them out on social media (@goldenmagumn across all channels) and stay tuned for their second issue coming this December!

Front Cover.jpg

About

Golden is a digital media strategy founded at the University of Minnesota, Twin Cities – run by students, for everyone. Golden embraces the power of getting dressed, celebrates the individual, and strives to break the boundaries of typical fashion, beauty, and lifestyle content. We feature an online magazine, blog, and social media presence on several platforms.

 

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