Paddling the Twin Cities

Paddling the Twin Cities

Creator: Aaron Lavinsky Credit: Star Tribune

Canoe, kayak or paddleboard: Your ultimate guide to paddling routes in the Twin Cities metro area, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro

Paddling the Twin Cities:You don’t have to go to the Boundary Waters to have fun paddling a canoe.

In Minnesota, we pride ourselves on being connected to water. But getting out there is easier said than done. Where do I put in my boat? How fast is too fast for moving water? How long will this take? Are there rentals? The information you need is all over the place, if you can find it at all.

We thought it could be easier, so some water-loving Minnesota Star Tribune staff members set out to create an urban paddling guide. We researched, paddled and mapped our favorite routes within the metro area.

We hope this guide helps you see the Twin Cities in new ways: take a lazy river ride toward the Minneapolis skyline; explore a little-seen part of St. Paul; practice portaging at Lebanon Hills in the southern suburbs.

While you’re out there, don’t forget to

Bring a life jacket. State law requires one for each person on board your watercraft.

Think twice before paddling in winds over 10 mph.

Watch water levels on rivers and creeks.

Swim with care.

Be mindful of private property.

Please tag @startribune in your urban paddling photos, and submit any questions about urban paddling to us using this form. See you on the water.

two women paddle a red canoe under the arch of a concrete bridge

East metro Chain of Lakes

Lake Phalen to Gervais Lake

a man paddles a solo canoe through a vast lake as the sun sets

Lebanon Hills

Jensen Lake to Schulze Lake

paddlers on canoes and paddleboards make their way under the arch of a concrete bridge with lush green leafy trees in the background

Minneapolis Chain of Lakes

Bde Maka Ska to Brownie Lake

,,,

the prow of an orange kayak makes its way through reeds into the body of a lake

Upper Minnehaha Creek

Lake Minnetonka to Utley Park Dam

two kayakers are shown from above making their way down a creek with leafy, rocky banks

Lower Minnehaha Creek

Utley Park Dam to Longfellow Lagoon

two kayakers are seen from above as they pass under the large white arches of a bridge with the skyline of downtown Minneapolis visible in the distance

Upper Mississippi River

Coon Rapids Dam to Boom Island Park

the span of a car bridge crosses a river gorge surrounded by trees showing fall leaf colors

Mississippi River Gorge

Bohemian Flats to Hidden Falls

a pair of canoeists paddle down a river with industrial infrastructure on the left bank, leafy forest on the right and a rail bridge in the far distance

Lower Mississippi River

Hidden Falls to Harriet Island

a pair of canoeists travels down a narrow creek with green grassy banks on either side and scattered bushes and trees

Upper Rice Creek

Peltier Lake to Baldwin Lake

Credits

Writing Jake Steinberg, Tom Nehil, Greta Kaul, C.J. Sinner, Susan Du, Walker Orenstein

Photography and Videography Aaron Lavinsky, Anthony Soufflé, Greta Kaul

Cartography Jake Steinberg

Editing Pam Louwagie, Tim Whitecotton, Genevieve Ross, Andy Putz, Mike Rice

Design and development Anna Boone, Tom Nehil

Promotion Sara Porter

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Hundreds of people gathered in June 2024 to watch the third annual sharpening of LOTI Pencil near Lake of the Isles in Minneapolis. ( “Spoonbridge and Cherry” )

 …

The giant No. 2 pencil also is the subject of a documentary film.

When is a pencil not just a pencil? When it’s on John and Amy Higgins’ lawn across from Lake of the Isles, is 20 feet tall and gets an annual public sharpening that draws crowds of more than 1,000 people.

 

The giant pencil, known as LOTI Pencil, will get its fourth annual sharpening on Saturday afternoon. The event kicks off another Minneapolis summer filled with outdoor art festivals and (hopefully) not a single day below 65 degrees.

 

This year’s pencil sharpening falls on Prince’s birthday ― and the pencil is ready.

 

“Because of leap year, by coincidence, it’s going to be another 12 years before Prince’s birthday is on a Saturday,” John Higgins said. “Maybe one of the pencil crew dances [five people dressed in pencil costumes dance] will be to a Prince song. We’ve got special commemorative purple Prince pencils. We typically hand out yellow pencils.”

 

To sharpen the giant public artwork, LOTI Pencil creator and wood sculptor Curtis Ingvoldstad made a 4-foot-tall wooden pencil sharpener that he hoists onto the tip with help from his friend John Daugherty, and the

pencil gets pointy again. Then, they throw the shavings to the crowd below.

This is a community ritual that’s also predicated on losing a bit of the pencil every year.

 

“The sacrifice of its monumentality is something that marks a year. … And so this is the sacrifice ― the pencil has to be sharpened otherwise it wouldn’t have been used,” Ingvoldstad said.

 

It’s not a pencil sharpening party without the requisite sweet treats from La La Ice Cream and the T-shirt slingshot, where lucky folks can snag one of 60 special commemorative purple T-shirts launched from a giant slingshot.

 

This year there’s also an alphorn duo. And no, that’s not a reference to Minnesota’s Afton Alps. We are talking the Swiss Alps.

 

The musical duo of Edina-based Mary and Ralph Brindle will play 12- to 15-foot-long horns, usually used to call sheep, but also to create music in the Swiss Alps. The duo has been playing alphorns together for 35 years and will perform as part of the opening ceremony.

 

Kids also can join in on the fun. They can get close and ask the pencil questions using a special telephone to translate it all to the pencil.

 

LOTI Pencil is getting so famous that soon there will be a short documentary about it.

Los Angeles-based documentary filmmaker Daniel Straub started doing interviews with John and Amy Higgins and Ingvoldstad three months ago and will be coming to town this week to shoot the documentary.

 

Straub hasn’t yet seen the pencil in person.

 

He first saw the pencil on someone’s Instagram account, just before its ritual sharpening.

 

“There’s something about turning an object to the scale of its source material, like making a pencil the size of a tree, that seemed really funny to me,” Straub said by phone from L.A.

 

He grew more interested in the pencil’s philosophical message after learning more from Ingvoldstad and Higgins.

 

“There was a quote from John where he described sharpening the pencil as ‘a promise to do something,’ and this yearly ceremony became this renewal of a promise,” Straub said. “This isn’t just a yearly gathering, it’s also a celebration and renewal, but also an acknowledgment of the passage of time.”

 

Someone wanting to make a documentary film about the pencil caught Higgins and his wife by surprise and it really moved them, he said.

The couple have been in their home for more than 17 years, and they’d love to keep up this tradition, but it might be ephemeral in nature, as was the felled tree that created it.

 

 

The pencil is different from the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden’s “Spoonbridge and Cherry,” which regularly gets its spoon and cherry repainted, is made of aluminum and steel, and could last forever.

•Spoonbridge and Cherry Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen (1985-88) New Minneapolis Sculpture Garden. ] GLEN STUBBE • glen.stubbe@startribune.com Tuesday June 6, 2017 Guide to the new Minneapolis Sculpture Garden. Two years after closing for renovation, it opens Saturday, June 10 with a daylong celebration. Breakdown of the new artists in the sculpture garden The sculpture garden is getting 18 new works.

•Spoonbridge and Cherry Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen (1985-88) New Minneapolis Sculpture Garden. ] GLEN STUBBE • glen.stubbe@startribune.com Tuesday June 6, 2017 Guide to the new Minneapolis Sculpture Garden. Two years after closing for renovation, it opens Saturday, June 10 with a daylong celebration. Breakdown of the new artists in the sculpture garden The sculpture garden is getting 18 new works.
Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen’s “Spoonbridge and Cherry” is a centerpiece of the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden. (Billy Steve Clayton — Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

The pencil first appeared in June 2022, some five years after the upper canopy of a 180-year-old oak tree fell onto the Higgins’ front lawn during a storm.

 

Rather than just get rid of the wood, the couple decided to preserve it in their own way — by making it into a public work of art in the shape of a No. 2 pencil. They hired Ingvoldstad to craft it, and the rest is history.

 

For a stationary pencil on a lawn, it’s pretty busy.

 

A pencil sculpture dressed up as Superman.
The pencil sculpture, known as the LOTI Pencil, got dressed up as Superman for Halloween in 2024. (Casey Darnell/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Last Halloween, the pencil wore a costume for the first time, dressing up as Superman and jamming out to R.E.M.’s song “Superman” on the weekends.

 

As Higgins told the Star Tribune at the time, “the pencil has a personality, and likes to do stuff regular people do — enjoy sunsets, pose for pictures with people.”

 

And although the pencil is becoming quite well known, for creator Ingvoldstad that’s less important than what it means to the community.

 

“It’s super heartwarming and overwhelming when people come up and thank me from their hearts for this because, it’s very unexpected in some ways,” he said. “But it doesn’t change why I do art and it doesn’t change me, and it doesn’t change anything in my pursuit. It just makes me feel good that other people get to walk away with the inspiration.”

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