The New Wave of Gorpcore: Northface/Gucci Collabs

The New Wave of Gorpcore: Northface/Gucci Collabs

Years after the trend first emerged, fashion is fueling a powerful second wind.

When Jason Chen coined the term gorpcore in The Cut back in 2017, he wasn’t discovering a new trend — he simply put a label on an aesthetic we were already familiar with: fashion that leans towards the outdoorsy, informed by what you might see on a hiker or a camper, with an emphasis on the utilitarian. But it occupies a gray area between technical apparel and something a little bit more zeitgeist-y, like normcore.

Gorpcore went mainstream in the mid-2010s when celebrities like A$AP Rocky and Frank Ocean started wearing Adidas Terrex AX3 GTX Men’s Trekking sneakers and Arc’teryx jackets. Demand for these brands skyrocketed, both from consumers and other players in the market: This ushered in a series of collaborations — North Face and Supreme, Columbia and Opening Ceremony, Fjallraven and Acne Studios — that continue to this day. (Just last week, Reformation announced a capsule with Canada Goose.)

Gorpcore has flourished into its own subcategory in the market. And in recent years, it’s evolved to intersect with the luxury world on a whole new level.

Photo: Imaxtree

Nylon accessories on the Prada Fall 2019 runway.

Dior BirkenstockJacquemus hiking boots, Prada’s hit nylon accessories — okay, the latter technically is a re-issue, but still: All of these are a testament to gorpcore’s popularity among shoppers. (The Lyst Index of 10 hottest products for Q3 of 2022 included both the Birkenstock Boston Clog and the Patagonia Better Sweater fleece.)

“Essentially, gorpcore became the new luxury streetwear,” says Lorna Hall, director of fashion intelligence at WGSN. “Its active functionality was truly performative to those buying into it — hence the infamous TikToks demonstrating a jacket’s waterproof credentials [by] standing in a shower or throwing bottles of champagne at it.”

It’s only growing in resale, too: Searches for “gorpcore” have been on the rise on Depop among its loyal customer base of teens and twenty-somethings, according to Augustina Panzoni, the company’s trends and category manager. Brands like Arc’teryx, The North Face and Salomon are driving greater traffic than ever, especially for vests, rain jackets, technical pants and bags. But Panzoni calls out Prada, Dior, Jacquemus and Loewe as luxury brands that have crossed into the space.

Photo: Vanni Bassetti/Getty Images

Patagonia Fashion Week

Gorpcore gives these younger consumers the opportunity to mix and match different aesthetics together and express themselves. They tend not to be loyal to a single brand, nor can they necessarily afford an entire luxury wardrobe. By jumping (and cashing) in on this aesthetic, luxury brands have provided more aspirational options to those able to afford them; but it’s an aesthetic that’s still attainable on a budget.

TikTok has also helped. Panzoni points to the viral trend of people wearing Arc’teryx’s Gore-tex jacket in the shower while listening to “Arc’teryx” by YG; searches for Arc’teryx rose almost 200% in the last quarter on Depop.

Meanwhile, for the brands that originated gorpcore, this recent trend is an opportunity to expand their clientele and stay relevant.

In 2021, The North Face teamed up with Gucci on a collaboration of groovy backpacks, colorblocked coats, Gucci-North Face monogramed puffers and heavy-duty boots. Launchmetrics reported that in just four months, the collection accumulated a whopping $15.3M in Media Impact Value. That same year, Arc’teryx partnered up with Jil Sander on a line of jackets, bibbed trousers and one-pieces that marry aesthetics and utility. More recently, on Sandy Liang‘s Spring 2023 runway, models walked out in ballet-inspired outfits paired with Salomon hiking shoes, creating an interesting juxtaposition between the designer’s über-feminine style and tougher footwear.
Photo: Imaxtree

Sandy Liang Spring 2023.

Teva has seen a similar resurgence in the age of gorpcore, embraced by everyone from Kendall Jenner to Chloe Sevigny — and it’s only kept growing since the pandemic.

“We carved out this unique space for ourselves in the fashion market with our statement sandals, and now with our lifestyle boots, but we really saw an acceleration of comfy-casual trends winning during the pandemic” says Julia Feldman, associate product line manager at Teva. (The brand alluded to a luxury collaboration on the horizon.)

Also on the footwear front, Collina Strada — a beloved New York label that’s often inspired by nature and driven by sustainability — introduced a collaboration with Melissa that’s generated a lot of buzz. Their Puff Sandal is futuristic-style hiking shoe that’s both funky and sporty, inspired by founder Hillary Taymour’s own lifestyle.

When it came to designing the shoe, it was equal parts about the aesthetic and functionality. “We made it so you could literally hike up rocks and jump into an ocean — it’s the coolest water-functioning shoe I have ever seen,” Taymour says. “Wear it with a pair of socks in the fall, with cargo pants or a dress, and it’s still a statement shoe. I feel like anything that’s multi-functional and can be worn for different types of outings is very much the Collina way.”

 Photo: Imaxtree

Collina Strada Spring 2023

So what’s behind this new wave of gorpcore — one that toys with luxury — surging years after the trend first emerged? To a certain extent, it’s a reflection of our sociopolitical climate.

“In streetwear, the mood and mentality always fits the times, and there’s a very definite element emerging of ‘harderwear for hard times,’ which aligns the aesthetic and performance to the dark geopolitical and economic mood music” says WGSN’s Hall. “The narrative is less about outdoor pursuits and weather functionality, more about survivalism.”

As for what’s to come, some predict the next step for gorpcore is to go digital.

“Streetwear is also starting to respond to the meta economy, where we see performance streetwear increasingly being influenced by metaverse/gaming and fantasy aesthetics,” says Hall. “The question is: Should they lean into these shift, or is it a step too far from their true extreme/outdoor DNA and therefore too big a risk?” Only time will tell.

Angela Wei

Fashionista

ICYMI

Winter Market at the Museum – Minneapolis, MN

 

North Designer: Lauren Good Day – The Tee Collection

North Designer: Lauren Good Day – The Tee Collection

Wearable Art Collection


Original Art & Design by Lauren Good Day, Award Winning Artist
Featuring Chief Blanket Inspiration by renowned Diné Weaver Naiomi Glasses
Wetipsí’ Winter Collection
The Wetipsí’ Winter Collection honors relationships and importance of interconnection. Iconography highlighting bravery, traditional leadership and our cultural life ways. Recognizing the significance of intertribal trade and the beauty of celebrating Indigenous identity.
Chief Blanket design a collaboration with Diné weaver Naiomi Glasses. Her original chief blanket turned ledger art in original LGD drawing.
groupladieswinter

Authentic Indigenous wearable art for the culturally confident, the fashionista, the collector and the Native arts appreciator.

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Shop the Tee in sizes S-3X
Lauren Good Day 
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Model: @collinnhale
Moccasins: @sweetermoccs1
Photo: @tirawan

ICYMI

New Brighton Ice Castles Opens Soon – New Brighton, MN


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Pantone’s 2023 color of the year is ‘Viva Magenta’

Pantone’s 2023 color of the year is ‘Viva Magenta’

Photo: Courtesy of Pantone

AI helped create the metaverse-ready hue.

Pantone’s 2023 color of the year is a “a carmine red,” made in conjunction with an AI tool, named Viva Magenta. Per a press release, it is “an unconventional shade for an unconventional time.”

The hue is as exuberant as the feeling of coming “back outside” post-lockdown, which even Beyoncé sang in this year’s chart-topping hit “Break My Soul.” It’s inspired by cochineal, a precious dye that typically comes from a scale insect. But more than being unique in getting its inspiration from critters, Pantone’s 2023 color of the year is different than all the rest in a major way: It’s metaverse-ready.

“The last few years were transformative in many ways in terms of people’s sense of self, and the way well- being, priorities and identity are being thought about,” said Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute, via a press release. “As a result, space has been created where we are free to explore and be accepted for exactly who we feel we are, whether it be in a cybernetic universe, a conventional space, or a magical blend of both.”

Working with the AI tool Midjourney, Pantone is leveraging the bold magenta color to explore a “Magentaverse” ecosystem, which will include immersive experiences in the color world in partnership with interactive art exhibition company ARTECHOUSE. While the company has art spaces in Washington, DC and New York City, it will host the “Magentaverse” at its Miami Beach location. Beginning on Dec. 3, the immersive exhibition will be open to the public for the first time, with “immersive rooms with textures and interactions that plunge attendees into an array of visual, auditory, and tactile experiences.”

Pantone prides itself on choosing its color of the year with an eye for upcoming trends and an appreciation for the future cultural landscape. Its punchy yellow-green in 2017 represented new beginnings, while last year’s “very peri” hue was inspired by the feeling of emerging from isolation.

After wowing the fashion world in”Project Runway,” Minnesota’s Christopher Straub expands his empire!

After wowing the fashion world in”Project Runway,” Minnesota’s Christopher Straub expands his empire!

Photos by Alex Kormann Star Tribune

Christopher Straub wants to make one thing perfectly clear: He wasn’t discovered.

He tried and failed, tried and failed again until he propelled himself into the unrelenting limelight of “Project Runway.” And while he didn’t clinch the 2009 title, he wowed the Season 6 judges and won the hearts of fans.

The wildly popular reality TV show made Straub a household name. He went on to do other TV shows, create costumes for television and movies and design clothing lines for a national women’s store. But, as he proudly proclaims on his social media accounts, he “didn’t put on airs, he just went back home to Shakopee, Minnesota, and put on his Midwestern work ethic.” (Straub didn’t come up with the line, he admits. He just lives it.)

That work ethic has him curating fashion shows at Mall of America, making the rounds on local TV shows, crafting leather goods, manning a booth at the Minnesota State Fair and writing and illustrating children’s books — all while raising two boys and a flock of chickens with his husband.

We talked with the self-made designer about growing up poor in Edina, his most “out there” creations and how he went from being a nationally known fashion designer to telling the story of Albert the confused manatee.

I was surprised to learn that you were still living in Minnesota. Like other residents of our aw-shucks state, I figured you would have lit out for the coast once you got a taste of fame. Why did you stay on?

I feel to connected to Minnesota. I’ve traveled all over the country, all over the world, but I love the seasons. If I were to move anywhere else, it would feel inauthentic. Minnesota is my home.

So you grew up as an Edina cake-eater, huh?

Believe it or not, we were a poor family. Friends had original art on the walls and we didn’t even have electricity all the time. But I grew up in an industrious community. Everyone’s parents were leaders in their fields, whether it was as a doctor, a lawyer or an illustrator. To own a business and have a legacy was normal. That helped me a lot.

So you were industrious, even as a kid?

I wasn’t getting out and doing sports, but being able to make money was something I knew how to do. I started with a broken sewing machine — I had to fix it first. Then, I made hats and sold them door-to-door and wouldn’t stop until they were all sold.

Was that sewing machine your ticket out?

It was a tool I could use to create something out of nothing.

What was one of the first things you created?

The first garment I made was a pair of pants. I didn’t want to do something simple — the pillow, the knapsack. I only had so much material, so one side of the pants was purple, the other was ivory.

That sounds very colorful. Did you wear them?

Oh, yes. I wore them to hang out with my weirdo friends under the Edina water tower. It was the early 1990s, so I fit right in!

Christopher Straub writes and illustrates children’s books — with matching plush toys.

 

You take pride in the fact that you’re completely self-taught. So you never got formal instruction, never went to design school?

I should have one of those pennants that says “No school.” I was making products and selling them. I would have a booth at Pride or at Northrup King [for the artists’ markets]. I’d sell whatever I made. I was already doing my own work. What else was I going to learn? As it ended up, I did more educating than being educated.

So how were you discovered?

Discovered? Ha! That sounds so glamorous, doesn’t it? It’s actually lots of work. I first saw “Project Runway” when my roommate got cable. After that, I had one goal: to get on that show and be launched into the fashion world.

I applied for Season 3. To apply, you had to have a portfolio of your work, which I didn’t have. I had to make a bunch of stuff and have it photographed and fly to Chicago [for tryouts]. They said “You’re not ready.” And they were right. I wasn’t. I didn’t understand my aesthetic.

You also applied for Season 4 and 5, but didn’t make the cut. For Season 6, you made it a bit farther — past the physical, the drug test, the psychological test — and were named an alternate. Then what happened?

I got a call and they said “What are you doing tomorrow? Pack your bags, quit your job. We’re sending a [camera] crew to your house right now.”

And the rest is history?

I went from total obscurity to being on TV, in national magazines. There was a week when I was in four magazines. In one week.

After five weeks of grueling, nearly round-the-clock filming, you were eliminated the episode before the finale. You were also voted the fan favorite. What did that mean to you?

It was a joy. I think I represented something that middle America could connect with. I didn’t have the opportunities other contestants had. I didn’t know the fashion trends and the fabric contents. The designs I made were for the art of it. If I’m going to make fashion for TV, I’m not going to make a smart pair of pants, I’m going to make a statement.

Since then, you’ve continued to design — pins and accessories, leather bags, custom men’s and women’s clothing, even your house in Shakopee. What’s the most “out there” thing you’ve created?

I did a fragrance for women’s store Maurices. It was called Be Amazing. At the time, perfumes were all baby power and gardenias. I chose a grapefruit top note.

Christopher Straub using a sewing machine.

Each Inside-Out Critter is handmade by designer-turned-author Christopher Straub.

Now you’re becoming known for your plush toys — from teddy bears and beagles to manatees and yetis. How did you go from the runway to the kid’s aisles?

The first toy I designed was a plush beagle named Cooper for Maurices. Maybe three years after, that I made a teddy from a serape I’d bought in Mexico. I wanted it to look 100 years old, so I made the seams exposed and put it in the drier. It got a huge response on social.

That spawned two businesses — Inside-Out Critters and memory bears. Do you really make all the plush toys you sell?

Yes, that’s me, making Critters and celebratory bears to memorialize a loved one, right here in Shakopee.

Is that how you got into writing and illustrating books for kids?

I have this manatee that I’ve been drawing since I was 10. I was on a flight somewhere when I got the idea for a book. I drew it and tried to get it published in the traditional way, but didn’t make any headway, so I did a Kickstarter campaign and raised enough money to pay my bills [for the book].

You produced two books — “Albert the Confused Manatee” and “Rocky the Confused Platypus” — before you and your husband, Ronnie Cooper, adopted two children. You’ve written five more since. How has being a dad changed your books?

Listen, two kids will change your life! We got two toddler boys and we had nine days to prepare to have them in our home. It was an expedited process. These kids needed a home. So I essentially took a year off.

My style of writing has changed. I realized I was writing books for the grandma or the parent or the uncle. Now I write for the kids. The books are shorter, rhyming, easy to read.

You’ve got a lot of irons in the fire — your leather goods and streetwear lines, fashion shows, local TV circuit, setting up booths at Twin Cities Pride and the State Fair to sell your merchandise and sign your books. How do you handle it all?

I definitely want to keep the books going. They have the most reach and the most impact. I’m working too hard and too much and I’m not working smart. But if it brought me no joy, I wouldn’t be doing it.

Karen Morris Millenery @Dayton’s Marketplace – Minneapolis, MN

Karen Morris Millenery @Dayton’s Marketplace – Minneapolis, MN

For the city girls… we’ve got styles for every outfit in your closet!

Karen Morris Millenery @Dayton’s Marketplace is back for the holiday season.  Our hats are located at the old JB Hudson inside the Dayton’s building at the ground floor.  We will offer perfect gifts – berets, bucket hats and head wraps for your loved ones.

A holiday party must-have!

Grab your statement holiday piece now to receive it in time for the festivities!

Consider it a Christmas gift to yourself.

We’re a big fan of fur for the holidays!

Karen Morris Millenery

500 Jackson Street NE

Northrup King Building, Studio 210,

Minneapolis, MN

ICYMI

Join us for the 2022 European Christmas Market at Union Depot – Saint Paul, MN

 

 

 

North Couture Design: Through Jimmy’s Eyes 

North Couture Design: Through Jimmy’s Eyes 

Introducing the first of its kind, a #ThroughJimmysEyes couture collaboration. We wanted to create something special and never before seen for this year’s UMN FashionFest Runway Show. We’re honored to have partnered with local designer @ro.gabrielle or @detalle_bygabrielle to create this one of a kind TJE gown featuring one of Jimmy’s signature prints in gorgeous silk.

To top off this local-inspired creation we partnered with @goldfinejewelry who provided custom pieces to compliment our dress, modeled by @shiahsanders and photographed by our dear friend @adammeyermedia at the home of @jamiecandee a long time supporter and collector of Jimmy’s Art.

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