’70s Homeware Was Loud, Eclectic & Optimistic. No Wonder It’s Back!

’70s Homeware Was Loud, Eclectic & Optimistic. No Wonder It’s Back!

Photo by Justine de Villeneuve/Getty Images
British fashion model Twiggy wearing a black dress with a black hat and pink suede high heels in Biba’s Kensington store, 1971
Refinery29: If you’ve never seen it before, you should look up pictures of London’s “Big Biba” shop. The seven-story department store opened in Kensington in 1973 following the explosion in popularity of Barbara Hulanicki’s fashion brand. While Biba is often associated with the 1960s (the first store opened in ’64), the interior of Big Biba was, in many ways, quintessentially ’70s. There were loud prints on the home floor, curved edges, soft geometric shapes, and a special commitment to earthy browns and oranges. It was a mishmash of art deco-inspired interiors reminiscent of the golden age of Hollywood, animal prints and beaded fringe, with an eclectic mix of trinkets and low lighting that really brought it all together. It was made to feel intimate, almost seductive — an explicit rejection of the stark lighting and synthetic color palettes of the ’60s.
Until the last few years, ’70s home design remained a largely reviled aesthetic. The rise of Britpop in the ’90s created pockets of ’70s nostalgia and a few trends from the decade have taken on a life of their own (hi, houseplants) but for the most part, ’70s home styling, particularly the swirling wallpaper and autumnal palette, was understood to be an ugly mistake. Sneering books have been written about it, such as Interior Desecrations: Hideous Homes From The Horrible 70s. Online, there are forums full of people asking, “Why were such awful colors popular in the 1970s?
Archival 1970s image of a mother and a son in their orange and brown kitchen.
PHOTO BY PHOTO MEDIA/CLASSICSTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
Archival 1970s image of a mother and a son in their orange and brown kitchen.
Yet ’70s interiors have come back around. Bit by bit, small trends like macramé, rattan, and houseplants have been leaking into modern home decor and the decade is now being embraced with open arms. But why the ’70s? And why now?
When it came to design, the ’70s was an era of play, eclecticism, and optimism. According to Dr. David Heathcote, senior lecturer in graphic design and illustration at the Liverpool School of Art and Design, the period was defined by the transition from modernism into something much more free-form and forward-thinking. “There was no heterogeneous style or styles — it was a free-for-all. Even where it referenced earlier, historic styles, which it began to do, it was in a very obvious and playful way, a kind of non-nostalgic timelessness.”
For homemakers and homeware consumers, the ’70s marked a shift towards the idea that your home could be playful. “I think there was a lot more broad playing with aesthetic ideas which people accepted,” says Dr. Heathcote. “They got used to the idea they could have things in many, many different styles. It was a massively eclectic period.”
What Dr. Heathcote calls the “dressing-up-box culture” of all the subcultures in the ’60s meant that there were many people coming of age in the ’70s who took their subcultural approach from their fashion to their interior design. “You’ve been a rebellious teenager, you leave home, you find a flat you want to stay in, and then you redesign it — all the effort that you put into your dressing is suddenly put into your housing.”
Photo by Estelle Bilson in Manchester, United Kingdom with @valsparpaintuk, @scarlett_rickard, @dogwoodlifestyle, @oneclickplants, and @70shousemanchester. May be an image of big cat.
This desire to experiment can be linked to a broader sense of liberalism and curiosity about the world which emerged in the ’70s. Much of the craft revival (particularly with materials like rattan and skills like macramé) can be traced back to what Dr. Heathcote calls an “increasing interest in, for want of a better word, ‘ethnic’ cultures.” There was an idea that a liberal outlook involved not just an acceptance but an enjoyment of other people’s cultures, and by showcasing these influences in your home, you were parading your “embracing the world type approach.” It’s the home design mentality equivalent of popular ’70s backpacking route, the hippie trail — seen just recently in BBC One’s The Serpent.
The problem with our perception of the ’70s as dark and dingy is actually not so much an issue of color as of lighting and fabrics. This was the era of dimmer switches, plush materials like velvet and, frankly, explicitly seductive design. The boudoir feel of places like Biba was inviting after the stark, jolly brightness of the ’60s. To design in a way that was seductive, by ’70s standards, was precisely the point. “There was a heavily eroticised angle to a lot of ’70s design,” says Dr. Heathcote. “It’s as if the permissive society that evolved in the late ’50s and through the ’60s turned itself into designs because there was an awful lot of dalliance with dungeon-like interiors at its most extreme.”
Photo by Estelle Bilson in Manchester, United Kingdom with @apartmenttherapy, @valsparpaintuk, @ebay_uk, @theatomicranch, @dogwoodlifestyle, and @70shousemanchester. May be an image of furniture and living room.
Ultimately, despite economic hardships at home, the ’70s held a sense of optimism about the future as travel and technology grew. This was reflected in home design: things may be bad now but they could be better. Perhaps our renewed interest in ’70s design in 2021 speaks to our wish to return to this sense of optimism and curiosity and even (whisper it) joy. But unlike the forward-looking ’70s, we’re now looking back, seeking comfort in a decade that seems a world away.
Estelle Bilson, the woman behind the much-loved Instagram account @70sHouseManchester, has been collecting ’70s homeware in some form since she was a small child, in part thanks to her father’s career as an antiques dealer. While there is something about the ’70s that she inherently loves, there is also a clear link back to her childhood.
“My parents think it’s really funny because I’m literally buying back the stuff they had in the ’70s. The sunburst rug I have in my dining room is so similar to the one my parents had in the ’60s and ’70s when they lived in London. That style rug was in my bedroom ’til I was about 13 and then it mysteriously got thrown away. I was really upset about that. It took me 15 years to find one to replace it. I had that, and I loved that as a kid, it anchored me in my childhood and really happy times so finding it again was almost like a security blanket. There’s probably some Freudian reason behind why I collect.”
This sense of nostalgia continues with the story that secondhand pieces carry with them, says Natasha Landers, a diversity consultant in Walthamstow who has a love of interior design. “I’m a child of the ’70s and the designs are very nostalgic for me as they remind me of pieces that we had in my home growing up. I am really interested in the fact that each piece will have a story behind [it]. Last year I bought a coffee table from a house clearance and the woman who sold it to me, it was her deceased parent’s house. When I was putting it into the car, she said she remembered playing cards on the table as a child.”

Photo shared by Natasha Interiors on September 02, 2020 tagging @browngirlgonevintage, @carolinechinakweart, @untillemonsrsweet, @blackhomesuk, and @lovingblackhomes.

There is a wealth of reasons why people are drawn to the ’70s in the 21st century. For some, it’s just a gut pull towards the shapes, textures, and colors of the decade. “If you look at the Evelyn Redgrave piece of fabric I’ve got on my wall,” Estelle says, “with the big swooping colors and the oranges and browns… There’s obviously something in me that I look at it and go ‘Wow.’ I’m sure other people go ‘Eurgh.'”
For others, it is a more explicit rejection of “modern aesthetics.” Isabella Bondo, a student living in Denmark, finds the dominant Scandinavian style “impersonal, clean, and boring.” “In Denmark, it feels like everyone else has the exact same interior style. If that’s what counts as modern design, I’m really not into it. The most important thing for me when it comes to interior design is personality and personal style, and I don’t feel that with modern design aesthetics.”
It is also a rejection of consumerism. Yvonne Chappell, who works in education and lives in Scotland, was initially drawn into ’70s design when she and her fiancé moved into their house, which was built in 1973. “I was immediately fascinated by retro interior design and particularly the colors seen throughout ’70s homes of the time. Being 24, I’ve grown up in a sort of throwaway society where styles change so quickly and things aren’t often built to last (I realized this after buying SO much flat-pack that kept breaking). Seventies furniture can be found in excellent condition to this day; the quality of furniture clearly stands the test of time. I like the idea of loving something that was designed well and designed half a century ago.”
We can even thank (?) the pandemic for accelerating some facets of ’70s design. With access to outdoor spaces severely limited by a series of lockdowns, the desire to bring nature inside both literally and figuratively has soared. The craze for houseplants and other forms of gardening shows no sign of abating. Equally, a pull towards warmer, earthier tones in homeware and interiors can be linked to a growing movement towards design that brings nature into our homes, says registered interior designer Nicola Holden. “Another growing movement in interior design is that of biophilic design, or bringing a connection to nature into our homes. A lot of the ’70s trends incorporate this, such as wood paneling, shag pile carpets, fringing, the use of natural materials and texture (exposed bricks and textured walls), and curved shapes.”
This ties in intimately with the trend towards sustainability, whether it’s earthenware ceramics made by independent artists to house our cheese plantstaking up hobbies to DIY our own crochet blanket or macramé wall hanging, or using more sustainable materials like rattan and cork. By choosing to support small businesses or buy products with a lower carbon footprint, you are inadvertently embracing a ’70s approach to design.
Even our pull towards statement lamps is ’70s-esque. Our current desire to create a sense of coziness as well as accommodating home offices has inadvertently led to a return to the low lighting of the ’70s. And the most popular lamp right now, the mushroom lamp, is a direct design import from that era.
The most divisive part of ’70s design is unequivocally the color palette. But after years of minimalismScandi chic, and the dominance of cream, grey, and beige, what once seemed gaudy now has a kind of charm. “The ’70s was a time of lurid patterned wallpapers and brightly colored upholstered furniture,” says Nicola. “Today we are definitely moving away from the beige/grey era and towards more color, as people are subconsciously realizing the energy and positivity that color gives us, which has been scientifically proven in the field of color psychology.”
Still, brown needs far more rehabilitation than the oranges, yellows, and avocado greens of the period.
“People still have a deep hatred for brown,” says Estelle. “It is a really polarising color. But actually, it’s a really good neutral to start from and it’s a really versatile, warm color.” When Estelle found the right shade for her dining room she was delighted to prove to everyone who told her not to paint it brown that, actually, it can look good.
If you want to take a step into the world of ’70s interiors, you don’t have to go all-in like Estelle, Isabella, and Yvonne. Try a softly-softly approach, choosing key ’70s pieces to style as part of a wider eclectic home design. As Camille Montalbo, an American-based thrifting aficionado, told Refinery29, “The way the furniture mixes together is pretty effortless.” Key pieces of furniture like chairs and tables end up being statements, which mesh well with other eras thanks to the simple lines of the design. Camille’s Jerry Johnson Sling Chair remains one of her favorite finds for that reason.
Plus, finding secondhand goods from the era is made easier by the huge proliferation of pieces available. The volume of designs being produced and a sharp increase in consumption mean that there was a lot of design about. And if it’s lasted this long, be assured it will last well into the future.
Beyond furniture, there is a wealth of ’70s-style home decor — both vintage and modern — to add warmth to a room or a statement to a corner, from lamps to sunburst mirrors to velvet throw pillows. If you’re feeling particularly inspired, why not branch into patterned wallpaper — Estelle has recently launched a homeware business of made-to-order wallpapers and fabrics.
The most important thing is to use your instincts and buy what you love. “It doesn’t matter if it’s a ”90s does ’70s’ lamp or something a little bit silly,” says Estelle. “If you absolutely love it, you will have it in your home and you will never tire of it.” And if you’re still put off by the perceived dinginess of the ’70s, just make sure your space is well lit.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team, but if you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.
Farmers, Foragers and Homesteaders are The New Fashion Infuencers

Farmers, Foragers and Homesteaders are The New Fashion Infuencers

That realization shifted Ong’s path. Slowly, the outfits in her feed transitioned from black-and-white to more vibrant colors, while the backdrops changed from hotel rooms in far-flung cities to the grass in her backyard. Her captions got longer and started delving into topics like politics and sustainable laundry practices. By 2020, the transformation was so complete that one might easily have mistaken Ong for an entirely different person from the blogger once known for creating Neon Blush.

Jenny Ong in her garden.

Jenny Ong in her garden. Photo: Courtesy Jenny Ong

 

Her new goal was “to make conscious, slow living seem as beautiful as, if not more beautiful than, life lived at full speed,” she says. She became a “homestead hobbyist,” sharing pictures of vegetables she’d grown and the antics of her colorful egg-laying chickens. Sponsored outfit pictures still appeared, but they featured a more narrow curation of brands and were often shot against a vegetable garden backdrop.

In some ways, she couldn’t have been better prepared for the coming pandemic — from a content perspective, at least — if she had tried. Half the country seemed to be planting victory gardens or building chicken coops for the first time, and Ong made doing so look magazine-worthy. In a world where travel, runway shows, crowded fashion parties and restaurant dining disappeared overnight, Ong’s depictions of a good life that consisted mostly of spending time outdoors without other people became extra appealing. Soon, that lifestyle was getting co-signed by the likes of Teen Vogue and the New York Times, which ran style pieces celebrating farmers and gardeners as the pandemic stretched on.

Ong’s not the only influencer whose content bridges the worlds of fashion and a life connected to the land. Kristi Reed makes her primary living selling secondhand clothing via her business Windy Peak Vintage, but she knows it’s her charming images of life on a homestead in rural Montana that initially draws people to her page.

“I think a lot of people that follow me fantasize about living rurally,” Reed says. “I try to portray the magic of the country.”

Kristi Reed gathering eggs from her chicken coop.

Kristi Reed gathering eggs from her chicken coopPhoto: Courtesy Kristi Reed

 

Through Reed’s lens, that looks like a yard full of goats, bunnies and chickens; children bathing in wheelbarrows; piles of hand-split firewood and big-sky Montana sunsets. The fact that Reed is always impeccably dressed in her pictures — hanging laundry in a billowy Dôen blouse, gathering eggs from the chicken coop in a flowy Christy Dawn dress — certainly adds to the fantasy of idyllic rural life. Reed admits that she’s not always actually dressed like that while doing chores, but all that means to her is that curation is part of the magic.

“Half the time I wear sweatpants and a baggy shirt when I go feed the chickens and don’t feel too inclined to take photos,” she says. But when she gets dressed up for work and likes her outfit, she makes sure to snap a photo doing whatever needs doing on the homestead, and those are the snippets of her life that followers see.

Reed’s approach is a bit different from that of Indy Srinath. As an urban farmer and educator in LA, Srinath isn’t painting a picture of rural life so much as casting a beautiful vision of what it looks like to forage, garden and grow your own food without moving away from an urban center. Srinath’s feed is certainly aspirational, albeit in a slightly different way: It features her own poetry, gorgeous vegetable flatlays and pictures of her foraging for mushrooms in earth-toned outfits.

Though Srinath’s background is more in farming and foraging than fashion, her well-defined aesthetic has attracted brand partners like Free People and Eddie Bauer. But Srinath insists that the clothing she wears in pictures really does reflect what she looks like as she goes about the business of growing, foraging for and harvesting food.

Indy Srinath with some beets.

Indy Srinath with some beets. Photo: Courtesy Indy Srinath

 

“When people volunteer at the urban farm where I work on Skid Row, they comment like, ‘Whoa, you really do dress like this at work,'” she says. “I have to be like, ‘This is me dressing down — it just happens to be matching and accessorized.'”

Regardless of what they wear when no one else is around, Srinath, Ong and Reed are all helping make a certain kind of lifestyle seem aspirational. The visual worlds they inhabit walk a line that feels more fashion-y than outdoor sports-y but is not quite as dainty or purely aesthetics-driven as the cottagecore cohort. They may use their visual brands to sell clothing, but ultimately the backdrop is a lifestyle that can’t be escaped once the camera’s put away. The tomatoes and okra and chickens still need tending even when there’s no sponsored content to be made.

It’s this commitment that can lend an air of authenticity to the posts of all three — no matter how much they present idealized windows into their lives, it’s clear there’s a real lifestyle involved that can’t be totally faked. That’s not to say there’s no difference between them and, say, full-time farmers, most of whom don’t have time to snap pretty pictures of themselves doing the work required to keep such an operation going. It’s just to note that they represent a slightly different category of content creators whose aesthetic can’t simply be purchased and delivered in a well-packaged mailer. On at least some level, it has to be lived.

This sense of authenticity carries through to the way that the three talk about clothing, too. With content so focused on plants, animals and the outdoors, it makes sense that Ong, Reed and Srinath integrate environmental concerns into how they market clothing. For Reed, that means promoting primarily vintage. For Srinath, it’s including plenty of brands that rely on organic cotton or offset their carbon footprints. And Ong broke ranks with her former agency so she could be more choosy about which partnerships she accepted, focusing on brands that use natural or recycled materials.

Kristi Reed chopping wood.

Kristi Reed chopping wood. Photo: Courtesy Kristi Reed

 

Still, hardcore activists might have bones to pick with any of them: Brands like Uniqlo and Free People being included in their rosters would incite cries of labor abuse and cultural appropriation from some, while others might just question whether it’s even possible to be a “sustainable” fashion influencer if slowing consumption is what the planet needs. But these women would likely counter that their sponsored posts enable them to keep creating free content that educates followers on everything from zero-waste lifestyles to how to engage their state representatives.

Beyond the clothing influencer bit, there are other complications involved with romanticizing living off the land. Indigenous people on the continent settlers named North America sustainably stewarded land right up until it was violently stolen from them, and many still advocate for “putting Indigenous Lands back in Indigenous hands.” And even after the American project began, access to land ownership became a privilege that was systemically and strategically denied to Black people.

As a white woman, Reed’s skin color has played a role in the kind of relationship she has with the land. Living in a rural part of the U.S., Reed felt that tension strongly in the summer of 2020 as the nation faced a reckoning on racial injustice. As protests began to gain momentum around the nation, Reed found herself far from any major cities where she could’ve at least joined in-person demonstrations in solidarity with Black Lives Matter. But she says using her platform to connect in some way to the movement felt useful.

“A lot of my followers are white farmers, so I feel like it’s good to push boundaries with people,” she says. “And it feels good to be able to have a little bit of a voice and to show that not all of rural America is Trump supporters.”

Ong’s means for engaging with the political turmoil in the country has involved researching and writing lengthy posts that pair her sunny imagery with information on voting, text banking and climate action. Early on, this attracted “stay in your lane” comments from followers who were expecting nothing but fashion and beauty content. But these days, Ong says most of those people have unfollowed her, so she doesn’t get much pushback anymore.

Jenny Ong feeding her chickens (and making a statement about voting).

Jenny Ong feeding her chickens (and making a statement about voting). Photo: Courtesy Jenny Ong

 

Srinath also talks explicitly about politics, racism and land access issues in her posts. But in many ways she sees her presence in agricultural and outdoor spaces as powerful in and of itself.

Growing up in North Carolina and being involved in clubs like Future Farmers of America, Srinath experienced firsthand the ways that agricultural spaces can conspire to make Black people feel unwelcome or unsafe, whether that’s simply because everyone else in the room is white or because of more overtly racist symbols like the Confederate flag being flown. Her goal is to counteract some of that through her online and in-person presence.

“I want to be a refuge where people can go and realize that Black lives do matter, Black joy matters, our passions matter and we aren’t always doing the emotional labor of educating on injustice,” she says. “We’re also living our lives, growing food, making pickles and exploring nature.”

Srinath has also begun fundraising for a Black-owned, Black-led community farm in LA so she can extend that influence beyond the world of social media. Having invested “sweat equity” into numerous white-owned farms, she dreams of a day where she works the soil of land that can’t be taken away from her.

“I really want folks to know that growing your own food is accessible. Being a person of color in outdoor spaces is hard but it’s doable,” she says. “And there’s always a need for more organic produce in Black and Brown communities.”

Indy Srinath with mushrooms.

Indy Srinath with mushrooms. Photo: Courtesy Indy Srinath

 

Until she reaches her funding goal, she’s going to continue relying on content creation for at least part of her income.

With vaccine rollout promising that there’s an end in sight for the pandemic — even if it’s still further off than anyone would like — it’s unclear whether the appeal of the farmer/forager lifestyle will start to decline. Will urbanites still fantasize about leaving the city behind to live off the land once their favorite bars, restaurants and performance venues open up again?

If there’s anything the pandemic has made clear, it’s that trying to predict the future is futile. But many are hopeful that Covid-19 has forced the world to slow down in a way that might have positive, lasting implications even once vaccines are widely distributed. If that’s so, growing one’s own food and forging purposeful connections with the land may be here to stay in our collective aspirations.

“At my core I believe as human beings we all inherently have that connection to nature and growth,” says Ong. “We just need to trust our intuition on how to best steer it.”

 

Whitney Bauck

Fashionista

Growing Up In Style: Indigenous Fashion Is More Than Tradition

Growing Up In Style: Indigenous Fashion Is More Than Tradition

Illustration @tesssmithroberts

Growing Up In Style is a series about the connection between fashion and local life in America, past and present.

I am a mixed-blood member of the Turtle Mountain Band of Chippewa, a tribal nation centered high in North Dakota, 10 miles from the Canadian border. My mother, Rita Gourneau Erdrich, sewed my clothes. Fashion starts in childhood. We instinctively love what is right for us. A dress of dark turquoise patterned with black flowers. A sparkling white pinafore with sunflower buttons. A pair of beaded moccasins made of tanned fawn skin, trimmed with red ribbon work. These were precious to me.

Like my background, my message has always been mixed. I went to college on a Native American Program scholarship wearing a denim miniskirt, brown tights, red cowboy boots, and my father’s knit oxblood teacher’s vest. In the ’70s, out of college, joining American Indian activists, I asked my mother for a ribbon shirt and a calico ribbon dress, which I wore with a treasured Borsalino hat from my Italian boyfriend. The hat was like the fedoras my Ojibwe grandfather, a tribal chairman, rocked in the 1940s. I wore the ribbon dress and hat to rallies in Fargo and marches in Washington, D.C., demanding that the United States, which has a government-to-government relationship with tribal nations, honor the treaties that our ancestors made in good faith. If it seems frivolous to dress in a certain way to register outrage or make a political point, just look at the Native leaders of that time. They knew then, and Indigenous protesters know now, that to display pride in our traditions is a powerful statement.

For a time, as a young mother and writer consumed by care, I let my husband choose my clothes and even my hairstyle. I became a sedate Catholic matron for a few years. But then my mother sensed I needed to return to her protection. She made a dark-green dance shawl for me, patterned with prairie roses and beaded vines. A Turtle Mountain friend painstakingly sewed a traditional jingle dress for me, black with embroidered dragonflies, for courage. More recently, another Turtle Mountain friend gave me a blue skirt patterned with water droplets and appliquéd with Ojibwe flowers, a water skirt. I wore the jingle dress to dance with my daughters and other Native women at the George Floyd memorial in Minneapolis, and the water skirt comes with me on book tours.

In our traditions, women are in charge of water. These calico skirts, made opulent with stripes of satin ribbon, visibly state our responsibility. Peggy Flanagan, White Earth Band of Ojibwe and our lieutenant governor here in Minnesota, proudly wears her water skirts and is loudly opposed to the Line 3 pipeline, which would disrupt our wild-rice beds, cross the headwaters of the Mississippi River, and contribute immeasurably to climate chaos.

Indigenous people create tribally specific clothing for many reasons—to express belonging, enter ceremony, show resistance, and to dance. Most important, I think our clothing makes a simple point. We are still here. There are 574 federally recognized tribal nations in the U.S. What we wear is unique to our particular tribal background. As I say, my look is always mixed but includes Chippewa, Ojibwe, or Anishinaabe influences, as well as Métis woodland-based patterns and complex flower beadwork. This style has been most beautifully interpreted by Métis artist Christi Belcourt, whose painting Water Song was used as the basis for several Valentino pieces in 2015.

In writing this, I don’t want to invite the careless to don Indigibberish outfits like fake eagle-feather headdresses or plastic–bone pipe breastplates. So I’m going to divide Native apparel into two categories: sacred traditional and contemporary Native fashion. In the first category, there is the jingle dress, a healing garment that incorporates metal cones. The shaking of the cones is mesmerizing; the sound is meant to heal. The Mille Lacs Indian Museum and Trading Post in Minnesota is hosting a show on the jingle dress, curated by Brenda Child, Red Lake Nation, that includes a dress made from a woman’s police uniform. The artist Maria Hupfield, Wasauksing First Nation, has created a jingle dress of regular blue-lined writing paper, printed with the names of over 500 North American Indigenous authors. Families all over Indian Country pool resources to outfit their powwow dancers in mind-blowingly elaborate regalia that is unrepeatable and impossible to mass-produce. How do you manufacture love?

In the second category, there’s cushy footwear, perfect for working at home. As I write this, I am wearing a pair of moccasins from Manitobah Mukluks, an Indigenous-owned company. The owner of Beyond Buckskin, Jessica Metcalfe, Turtle Mountain Chippewa, sources grassroots designers who incorporate Ojibwe language into objects available from her online store. The nonprofit Honor the Earth sells bold graphic designs that anyone can wear to show solidarity with the Native fight for climate justice.

These days, the only way I have to express Indigeneity in public life is to wear jewelry, especially beaded earrings, on Zoom appearances. Wheels of antique beads made by Pe Hin Sa Win, Red Hair Woman, give me the comfort of a family friend. Josef Reiter’s heavy Anishinaabe silverwork cuff gives me strength. Sweetgrass-trimmed birchbark circle earrings from my oldest daughter remind me to use our language. Another daughter made me a golden eagle–winged medallion that illustrates my Ojibwe name.

I know who makes the special things I wear. I know the history of each design. Each piece has meaning that gives depth to the moment, to the day, to my life. I wear adornment that keeps me close to my origins and to the earth; I have a rich connection with the people who make my favorite garments and jewelry. And I feel extra satisfaction when I wear something that expresses that relationship and also expresses me. Isn’t that supposed to be what fashion is about?

Louise Erdrich is the author of over 20 books, including the National Award-winning novel The Roundhouse.

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Indigenous fashion is more than tradition. Louise Erdrich of the Turtle Mountain Band of Chippewa reflects on how Indigenous garb, from calico skirts to traditional jingle dresses, has encouraged expression throughout her life. “Indigenous people create tribally specific clothing for many reasons—to express belonging, enter ceremony, show resistance, and to dance. Most important, I think our clothing makes a simple point. We are still here.”

 

How Vidal Sassoon Changed the World With a Hair Cut

How Vidal Sassoon Changed the World With a Hair Cut

Fashion designer Mary Quant with Vidal Sassoon, 1964.

BEAUTY: Legendary hairdresser Vidal Sassoon introduced hair cuts that revolutionized the look of the modern woman.

London-born hairdresser Vidal Sassoon is remembered for his captivatingly successful career and everlasting cultural impact. After enduring a troublesome childhood and experiencing the Second World War, Sassoon defied all odds and pursued a career in hairdressing. Soon after, he opened his own salon in London and began his world-altering trajectory.

At the onset of his career, Sassoon conceptualized a new haircut for the modern woman, a blunt cut bob. The geometric cut was unlike any standard hairstyle of the time, it was low-maintenance and signified a changing of attitudes when it came to women’s fashion. When reflecting upon his career in the documentary Vidal Sassoon: The Movie, the stylist said, “If I was going to be in hairdressing long term, I wanted to change things…To me hair meant geometry, angles. Cutting uneven shapes, as long as it suited that face and that bone structure.”

His style, which is said to be inspired by Bauhaus architecture, was incredibly attainable and could be recreated in any hair salon around the world. The accessible nature of Sassoon’s look blurred class lines and coincided with second wave feminism. The iconic bob blossomed into a number of similarly constructed hairstyles, and Sassoon became a household name. His work was visible on the covers of major publications, in blockbuster movies, and on the heads of celebrities like Sharon Tate, Mia Farrow, and Peggy Moffitt. In his later years, Sassoon was honored with a royal title as a Commander of the Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II due to his meaningful contributions to society. In 2011 Sassoon was diagnosed with Leukemia and tragically died a year later. On his birthday, L’OFFICIEL looks back on Sassoon’s remarkable career.

ICYMI: The Highly Unlikely Yet Totally Predictable Return of Uggs

ICYMI: The Highly Unlikely Yet Totally Predictable Return of Uggs

Credit…via Uggs

How Ugg learned to play the high-fashion game. It started with Rihanna, as these things so often do.

It was the halcyon days of 2018 and the pop singer and fashion icon wore a pair of Uggs to — where else? — the Coachella music festival.

Not your average pair, like the classic boots made famous by a Juicy Couture-clad Lindsay Lohan at the height of her Us Weekly fame in the early aughts. This pair was a collaboration with the Belgian designer Glenn Martens of the avant-garde label Y/Project, who exploded the ostentatiously unsexy style to Brobdingnagian proportions, yielding a version that was high-heeled, slouchy and reached well above mid-thigh. A picture of Rihanna in the wader-like footwear amassed more than 3.3 million likes on Instagram, and even Vogue couldn’t resist their strange allure.

“The C.F.O. was not super-excited about them,” Andrea O’Donnell, the Ugg brand president, recalled. After seeing a CNN news segment of the Y/Project runway show in which they were unveiled, “he came in and said, ‘Tell me that I didn’t see thigh-high boots, on a catwalk, worn by a man,’” she said, laughing.

Ms. O’Donnell had been hired in 2016 to help reposition the brand with consumers who associated Ugg with the classic boot in its purest form: shin-high, slip-on, mocha brown and lined in sheepskin. It was a casual style, to be worn with yoga pants while running errands. Ugg wanted to widen its image to encompass more fashion-forward associations.

And Ugg had lost its luster. Once the boot du jour for carefree socialites and off-duty starlets, it had become part of the uniform of a certain upwardly mobile consumer with bland bourgeoisie taste. The label was hardly the first to experience this trajectory. It’s a common one in fashion: Things that once had an air of exclusivity and mystique are then fully absorbed by the culture. Uggs were beloved but mass market.

Ms. O’Donnell, who came from the luxury department store Lane Crawford, moved to Santa Barbara, Calif., where Deckers, the Ugg parent company, is based, and got down to work, initiating a series of high-profile collaborations to inject some glamour into the label.

“We needed to engage the fashion community about what our brand could be,” Ms. O’Donnell said.

She has since assembled a roster of collaborations that are as eclectic as they are eccentric. Far from tapping, say, luxury labels in the European mold (recent partnerships between Prada and Adidas or Dior and Nike Air Jordan come to mind), Ugg chose designers with edgier, artier inclinations, which helped reinforce what Ms. O’Donnell said is the brand’s potential to be both aspirational and accessible.

“Ugg really needed to reinvent itself,” said Ayako Homma, an analyst at the market research firm Euromonitor International, citing market saturation and counterfeits as reasons for waning consumer interest. “And collaborations are a great way to revamp the brand image by bringing in new styles and new consumers — especially teens and younger adults, many of whom may not be familiar with the brand or haven’t owned a pair before.”

 

Ugg kicked things off with the Los Angeles enfant terrible Jeremy Scott, who plastered his boots with a kitschy flame print, and it followed up with the New York designer Phillip Lim, whose designs featured front zippers, pops of orange and rubber guards that recalled duck boots.

Last year, the arty bicoastal duo behind Eckhaus Latta made clunky square-toed clogs and mules, and the louche streetwear label Stampd created a convertible pair that could transform from slippers to boots, which the website Highsnobiety called “peak work from home footwear.”

Next up are the British designer Molly Goddard, she of the tulle extravaganzas, who showed platform mules, shaggy slippers and boots with floral appliqués at her spring 2021 show, and the Brooklyn designer Telfar Clemens, whose patchwork, logo-strewn boots (plus bedazzled T-shirts, oversize hoodies and fur-lined bucket hats) will be released next year.

“They are basically an accessible luxury,” said Mr. Clemens, who has upended old ideas about gender and identity. “It’s a Christmas list thing for hundreds of thousands of people. That’s the sort of space we want to occupy.”

Department stores known for their discerning product mix, like Nordstrom and the Canadian retailer SSENSE, have taken notice and started to carry the limited-edition releases.

“The totally unexpected nature of the collaborations continues to keep the brand relevant,” said Brian Costello, the vice president and merchandise manager for women’s shoes at Nordstrom. And while the limited editions generate excitement within targeted communities, they do so without alienating fans of the core collection.

 

Telfar Clemens collaborated with Ugg on a collection that will be released next year.
Credit…via Ugg
Ms. O’Donnell, whose first memory of the brand is Pamela Anderson wearing Uggs with her red “Baywatch” swimsuit (Ms. Anderson, an animal-rights activist, has since renounced the boots), calls the classic boot a “cultural icon.” That sort of talk is often ballyhoo, but in this she’s not wrong. Uggs permeated the zeitgeist in a way few other footwear brands can claim.
Oprah Winfrey included them in her annual “Favorite Things” episodes, starting in 2003, creating a frenzy. Celebrities often wore them between takes while filming, which continued to raise their profile. And starlets helped forge an image of them as glamorous and casual in the early part of the century. Originally they were worn by surfers to keep their feet warm after a morning of wave-riding, giving them instant street (beach?) cred. Still, without constant tending and innovation, a brand built around one signature item can easily get stuck in a rut.

“Uggs will always and forever remind me of coming of age in the early aughts, seeing them on celebrities like Jessica Simpson on ‘Newlyweds’ or Paris Hilton shopping at Kitson,” said Tyler McCall, the editor in chief of the Fashionista website. “Lately, though, they also bring up images of a very specific, cool-art-scene kid.”


Credit…via Ugg

 

For Ms. McCall, it was those Y/Project boots that helped her see the boots anew. “At first it was like, ‘Wait, these are crazy!” then, ‘Are these crazy, though?’ and finally, ‘Wait, maybe these are so crazy they’re cool?’”

“With the internet, it feels like there is a dizzying number and array of fashion circles, and Ugg has made its way into a few of them,” Ms. McCall said. “Whether it’s people interested in these buzzy collaborations or those who want to wear them with a sort of nod-wink ironic nudge to that millennial aesthetic.”

While the collaborations have been able to whip up excitement in the fashion community, serendipitous outside forces have added to Ugg’s recent good fortune. It is one of few fashion brands poised to benefit from the novel coronavirus as stay-at-home orders and mandated quarantines created a surge in popularity for cozy apparel and accessories, like sweats and house slippers. Uggs may be just the regression we all need in these times.

Additionally, nostalgia for trends from the early aughts has experienced a renaissance in recent years, fueling a fervor for Puma sneakers, Prada nylon bags and other brands of the era. And while Uggs have been derided by some as downright unattractive, ugly shoes are popular in certain cool-kid circles. Ms. Homma of Euromonitor likened Ugg’s trajectory to the ascent of another ugly-covetable shoe: Crocs.

In its most recent quarterly earnings call, in late October, Ugg reported a modest increase in net sales, at 2.5 percent. Ms. Homma noted that, considering the challenging retail environment of the last year, that figure actually reads as quite resilient.

 

Credit…via Ugg; Jared Siskin/GC Images; Dia Dipasupil/GC Images; John Sciulli

In September, Lyst, the fashion search platform, noted: “As ugly boots are replacing ugly sandals post-summer, demand for Ugg boots is growing 24 percent week on week. Over the past month, there have been more than 41,000 searches for the brand.”

Moreover, the availability of these particular partnerships is concentrated, with the ultimate goal of creating a halo effect around other products, like the Fluff collection, which has been seen on Serena WilliamsCardi B and Justin Bieber (who, in 2010, told Seventeen magazine he thought Uggs were “ugly”).

To further expand its image, the company recently released a campaign starring the pierced and tattooed Dennis Rodman and the pink-haired skater du jour Evan Mock mugging on a debris-filled mansion lawn. And last month a new flagship store concept, which leans heavily into sensual curves and terrazzo floors, was unveiled on Fifth Avenue.

So, like it or not, Uggs are cool again. Or maybe they were always cool. Or, keeping in mind the strange and fickle ways that trends ebb and flow in the social media era, maybe they were never cool, which is what makes them, well, cool.

Unveiling The North Face x Gucci Campaign

Unveiling The North Face x Gucci Campaign

Unveiling the #TheNorthFacexGucci collection by @alessandro_michele in a campaign shot by @danielpshea, with art direction by @christophersimmonds. Set in the Alps, the collection is photographed in the style of a group holiday in the mountains. The outerwear silhouettes are based on original designs from @thenorthface from the 70s, and include puffer jackets, part of the collection along with clothing and accessories. Featuring the combined logo of both brands, The North Face’s three curved lines and the green-red-green Gucci Web stripe, also appears on a dedicated label. The collection will launch in #GucciPins in China from December 29, touching down around the world in the first weeks of January. 

 

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