Stylist Ilaria Urbanati Has Created The Ultimate Lifestyle Website For Guys: LEO

Stylist Ilaria Urbanati Has Created The Ultimate Lifestyle Website For Guys: LEO

Stylist Ilaria Urbinati has used a slow professional year to finally get her dream project off the ground.  The stylist to The Rock, Armie Hammer, Rami Malek, and most of the best dressed men in Hollywood launched Leo today: a one-stop destination for guys. The site and newsletter features contributions from some of Urbanti’s famous pals as well as fashion advice, travel tips, playlists, and there’s even a feature on the ultimate diaper bags for dads! She tells The Daily why every guy needs to get in on this!

 

How did you come up with the idea for Leo?

Honestly, I had a few clients that had been bugging me about doing a men’s website for years. I had been wanting to work on this forever, but with my styling schedule always being so insane, I just never had the time. Obviously, once the pandemic happened, I suddenly had the time and I really didn’t waste a minute. I got going on it almost right away and have been doing that full time for at least seven months.

What was it about men’s stories that interested you?
I’ve just worked with men for so long as a stylist and I had a men’s store for years. Before I was a stylist, I was a writer and mostly wrote for men’s magazines. I’ve just always had a knack for understanding men for some reason. My clients and my male friends have always come to me for all their style inquiries but also everything from “What should I buy my girlfriend for her birthday” and “Where should I go on this trip” to “Should I do this movie/project?” I happen to have quite an assertive opinion and I think men respond to that.

Why is it called Leo?
I named it after my newborn son. I had twins who are about to turn one-year-old. They were four-months-old when the pandemic hit. I have two daughters and Leo was my first son. It felt right to name my men’s website after my son. Plus, the word Leo has some great masculine undertones, and I just liked the way it looked graphically.

Ilaria Urbinati

James Marsden and Ilaria Urbinati (Getty Images)

How often will you be updating? How can we sign up? Is it free?
The newsletter is five days a week, Monday through Friday. One must-know-item a day right to your inbox. The website launches with 30 features, which was quite the feat. After that we will be doing three new features a week, until we give readers a chance to catch up. After that we will update it five days a week. To sign up, you just go to leoedit.com and you can subscribe for the newsletter and peruse the website anytime. And yes, it’s free!

Who are some of the “friends of Leo?”
I’m fortunate in that I’ve been surrounded by incredible creatives and experts in their fields, and everyone I approached about contributing features to the site said yes. We are launching with pieces from The Rock, Tom Brady, Charlie Puth, Lady A, Chef Curtis Stone, Manny Pacquiao’s boxing coach Justin Fortune, and so on. We also have other upcoming features coming soon after that from Casey Affleck, Armie Hammer, Aaron Paul, Lucy Boynton, director Luca Guadagnino, and more. And just a lot of authors, gamers, athletes, musicians, costume designers, scientists, filmmakers, and trainers.

What are some of the first stories featured on the site?
We have a tequila recipe from The Rocka fitness feature with Tom Brady, a really cool music feature with Charlie Puth, which he wrote himself—it turns out he’s really funny and a great writer! A steak recipe from Chef Curtis Stone and a Nashville guide from Lady A (formerly known as Lady Antebellum). We have a knife guide, a motorcycle guide, quite a bit of food and travel features, film/book/and podcast features, and an interview with Justin Fortune about the future of boxing fights post-COVID. And, of course, I did all of the shopping and style features. We have the Leo Fall Edit and various others. I meticulously select every single style item on the site. It’s like being styled by me for free!

This has been a rough year for stylists due to a lack of red carpets, press junkets, etc.. How have you managed to stay upbeat?
The website has kept me too busy to get down. Obviously my three kids and my partner Johnny keep me super happy. Having had twins right before the pandemic was both stressful and the ultimate joy. I do a lot of research on what’s going on in the world and with COVID but I try and keep away from the negativity from the news and social media as much as possible. But for sure the website has been a true silver lining in this whole situation.

What have you missed most this year about styling?
Mostly I miss fittings, seeing my clients, and awards shows like Venice, Cannes, and the Emmys. I miss tuxedos! But just that one-on-one collaboration with clients.

Chic Report
NYT: The Newest Thing in Fashion? Old Clothes

NYT: The Newest Thing in Fashion? Old Clothes

Credit…Daniel Jackson, via Display Copy

UNBUTTONED By 

It has a well-known model/personality on the cover: Paloma Elsesser, the plus-size model, inclusivity champion and British Vogue favorite. It has glossy shoots by famous photographers: Katerina Jebb and Mark Borthwick. And it has clothing credits that include Helmut Lang, Paul Smith, Adidas and Balenciaga.

In one way, however, it is not typical at all. The credits for “where to buy” include the Salvation Army, Etsy and eBay. Display Copy may be a new magazine, but, as the editor’s letter says, it “doesn’t feature a single new fashion item.” Every item of clothing it pictures and promotes is vintage. Secondhand. Thrifted. Pre-loved. For resale.

 

“The idea was to make used clothes desirable,” said Brynn Heminway, the editor of the magazine, which will have a constant stream of mostly shoppable online content, and will be published twice a year as a limited-edition collectible. “Because I honestly feel nothing new is sustainable. Everyone told me I would never get any advertising support, or anyone to write about it.” But it turned out, the timing was perfect.

Credit…Amy Troost, via Display Copy
Credit…Carlton Davis, via Display Copy

After years of pushing only new, new, new (while behind the scenes scouring flea markets for inspiration), fashion brands are beginning, finally, to publicly embrace the old. Upcycling is reaching critical mass.

It may be the most concrete shift in the fashion system to come out of the pandemic: the one real product to emerge from all of the industry talk in May and June about change and sustainability and value systems.

The week before Display Copy arrived, Miu Miu introduced Upcycled by Miu Miu: a limited collection of vintage dresses from the 1940s through the ’70s that have been tweaked, refashioned and otherwise jazzed up for a contemporary customer. The week before that, Levi’s unveiled Levi’s Secondhand, a buyback and resale program that will allow customers to sell their old denim to Levi’s so it can be repaired, reinvented and resold (or recycled).

They are both following in the footsteps of Maison Margiela, which put upcycling at the center of its creative process back in February when it introduced the Recicla line (Italian for “recycle”) — a collection built on garments the designer John Galliano’s team finds in charity shops and then deconstructs and reworks — and has since doubled down on the idea. Which itself came in the wake of Patagonia’s Worn Wear program, a pioneer in the field.

Credit…via Miu Miu
Credit…Rachael Wang
In early October, Gucci announced a partnership with the RealReal, the resale site, for a Gucci-specific second life store on the platform, just as Stella McCartney and Burberry did before it. And speaking of Ms. McCartney, she has created a new plan to upcycle her own samples and pieces that were made but never put into production — clothes that had been gathering dust in a storage closet or waiting to be sold off cheaply at sample sale. The upcycling will include adding some extra embellishment and handwritten notes on the tags and offering the pieces as one-off quasi-couture.

She is also plotting to reissue her most popular former styles, as is Michael Kors, who last season remade a cape from a fall 1999 collection and recently included a dress from spring 1991, originally worn by Anna Wintour to Grace Coddington’s 50th birthday party at Indochine, in his spring 2021 collection.

Add to that Cate Blanchett recycling her wardrobe during the Venice Film Festival in September.

Credit…Joel C. Ryan/Invision, via Associated Press

“We’re just trying to put the spotlight on wonderful things that last,” Mr. Kors said in explaining his collection during a Zoom presentatio

That was, it turned out, a short-term way of thinking that reeked of insecurity, relying on freneticism and white noise. It may have boosted sales, but it also led to not only a glut of stuff but also an erosion of the value proposition. After all, if the company that made a garment didn’t think it was worth hanging on to for more than a few weeks, why should the person who buys it?

Once that confidence and understanding is lost, it is unclear how it ever comes back. Upcycling may be the answer.

“I started being a fashion designer because I never found anything I liked,” said Mrs. Prada, who hates throwing clothes away and has a whole separate apartment where she keeps her old wardrobe as well as her mother’s.

“Before that, for 10 years I dressed in vintage,” she continued. “I always asked myself why I liked it so much, and I think it’s the history. Each dress represents a person, a piece of a life. For me, the past always had an incredible value because anything you learn comes from there.”

Yet not that long ago, during a discussion in early 2019 for Muse magazine about fashion’s role in the climate crisis, I asked Marco Bizzarri, the chief executive of Gucci, why his brand didn’t take back its own clothes once consumers were done with them so they could be upcycled and resold. Why, though fashion was increasingly grappling with the environmental impact of materials at the start of a product’s life, there wasn’t as much focus on its end of life, or second life. At the time, he said it was too complicated and systems weren’t in place.

Credit…via Batsheva

So what changed? First, the fact that, early in the pandemic when countries were in lockdown, many mills were not working, so designers had to turn to deadstock (fabric left over from previous collections and a word that in itself reflects the industry’s former attitude) to create products.

This helped break the “old” barrier, said Batsheva Hay, who used her leftover fabric to make a series of limited-edition “housedresses.” Traditionally, she said, fashion had been “afraid of anything last season,” even though consumers have positive associations with the word “sustainability.”

Add to this the realization that consumers themselves were, as Giorgio Belloli, the chief commercial and sustainability officer of Farfetch, said, “changing their behavior and starting to see more value in their items.” (This in turn prompted Farfetch to expand its Second Life program, which allows customers to offer old handbags for on-site credit in Britain, the United States and several other countries in Europe.) They’re changing because of pandemic-induced economic factors and the understanding, no longer debated, that the responsibility to address the landfill problem lies not just with fashion producers, but also shoppers.

All of which has helped bolster the much heralded growth of the resale market, which ThredUp has predicted will hit $64 billion by 2024, with the online secondhand market growing 69 percent between 2019 and 2021. And the fact that increasingly, Gen Z, or what Ms. Heminway of Display Copy calls “the Depop generation,” has turned away from the waste of fast fashion and, priced out of even contemporary fashion, moved toward thrifting.

Credit…Daniel Jackson, via Display Copy

(Whether they will celebrate the fashion embrace of their shopping strategy is a different question; often, when the older generation co-opts the behavior of the young, the young get grossed out and move on.)

The result is a powerful combination of forces pushing fashion, and how we think about clothes, in a new direction. Though perhaps the most powerful force of all is self-interest — and not just commercial.

It turns out that the challenge of working with old stuff, of reinventing it, whether with technology or design (or both), has opened up whole new realms of intellectual and aesthetic possibility in the way that problem-solving often does. As Display Copy reads, “our intention is to celebrate the ingenuity we find in ourselves when we are determined to preserve the things we love.”

Mrs. Prada said working on Upcycled Miu Miu had been creatively inspiring. In a podcast about his Recicla initiative, Mr. Galliano called it “restorative.”

Who wouldn’t want to buy that right about now?

 

Vanessa Friedman is The Times’s fashion director and chief fashion critic. She was previously the fashion editor of the Financial Times. @VVFriedman

 

Related: The Best Corner Store (MSP)

A Hair Journey: Decisions, Decisions?

A Hair Journey: Decisions, Decisions?

From R+Co award-winning hair formulas, outstanding performance color-safe, uv protection, vegan, gluten-free + Leaping Bunny-certified products: Just a little off the top. And the sides. Keep the length. But I still see red. And wait, how do we feel about bangs? Or not.

randco

Sisterhood of the Traveling Wedding Dress: Tina Nguyen Got to Have Her Dream Wedding!

Sisterhood of the Traveling Wedding Dress: Tina Nguyen Got to Have Her Dream Wedding!

Kare11/: A Vietnamese immigrant to the U.S., she had two ceremonies – one for each home and culture. She hired all immigrant-owned vendors, from the food to the flowers.

 

There was a roasted pig, a chalk artist, a tall, handsome husband – and the perfect dress.

 

After the wedding, Tina had her dress cleaned and pressed. Then she posted it on Facebook Marketplace, marked “Free.”

Credit: MVPHOTOS/Facebook
Tina’s ad offering her dress up to brides who can’t afford one.

To understand why Tina did this, it’s necessary to learn a bit of her story. She comes from a family of great struggle, and success despite the odds.

Her grandmother spent time as a prisoner of war. She raised Tina’s mother and even adopted another son. Tina’s mother in turn raised three children on her own. Tina came to the U.S. under an exchange program at 14 years old – with two weeks’ notice to pack up and leave her home.

“Very strong woman background in my family,” Tina said. “And we always, always just wanted to just to support and to empower women and give back.”

Credit: Tina Nguyen
Tina’s mother (left) and grandmother (right) both raised their families on their own.

Tina now works in machine learning. She just celebrated her one-year wedding anniversary, and recently got her green card through work. She calls herself an activist, with her late grandmother’s roots and words forming her foundation.

“She always reminded me of where we came from, the struggle, how she built an empire on her own, two hands and two feet by herself,” she said. “She’s like, you are privileged to live in a life that you currently have, and that privilege, you need to know and always, always recognize that.”

Tina and her grandmother, who Tina says “defied every rule.”

As Tina watched the U.S. devolve into the chaos of COVID-19 and erupt in civil unrest over racial inequities, she wanted to do something. It felt overwhelming.

“They’re going through this whole pandemic thing,” she said. “You know, the economics of it, to say, ‘Oh my God, you know, we have to change plans’ and all that. ‘Do we even have a wedding?’ And with that, you know, shopping for a dress, like, ‘How does it work? Is it safe?'”

Tina thought, “I have a pretty sweet wedding dress just sitting in my closet.”

And not just any dress. It’s a Paloma Blanca, retailing for over $2,000. It’s made with three layers of silk.

“I love, love my dress,” she said. “It’s just beautiful. It’s silky. It’s soft.”

Credit: MV PHOTOS
Tina lines up with her bridal party for her September 2019 wedding.

With Tina’s family so far away, she said she’s blessed to have an “adopted” American family. The Haglunds welcomed Tina in after connecting with her at her graduation from Augsburg University.

When Tina tried the dress on for the Haglunds, she surprised herself by crying. She knew it was perfect – but it was expensive.

Jim Haglund told her, “It’s your one day. You get to be the princess.”

“I thought about, like, what a privilege it was for me to do that and to have that opportunity,” Tina said, remembering the moment. “And that’s why I’m doing this, too, right? It’s such a privileged day that so many people couldn’t, and right now, obviously, a lot of people are struggling.”

At Tina and Chris’ wedding, a chalk artist drew two hands holding one starfish each on the wall. That was the “logo” of the marriage, Tina said.

It’s a familiar story: A woman stands on the sand, throwing beached starfish back into the water. A child asks, “There’s so many of them. How can you possibly make a difference?” The woman throws another and replies, “I made a difference to that one.”

Credit: MVPHOTOS
Tina and Chris hired a chalk artist to draw the “logo” of their wedding: starfish.

“I always struggle with, like, how do I make a change?” Tina said. “And one of my mentors, she told me about the starfish story.”

It’s not that Tina sees herself throwing the starfish, though.

“I am the starfish,” she said.

She was taken in by different communities in the U.S. as a lonely teen and young adult, from Colorado to Oregon to Minnesota. She was “adopted” by a set of American parents who welcomed her into their lives for holidays, birthdays. She was raised by women who risked everything to give her the gift of safety, privilege.

“That’s just a reminder for the rest of my life, too,” she said. “It’s like, yeah, just one starfish at a time, one starfish.”

Tina has already had several people reach out about her ad. She hopes she can pass the dress to as many brides as possible – what she calls a “Sisterhood of the Traveling Wedding Dress.”

“I just want to offer it up and just, you know, share the joy,” she said. “It made me feel like a bride. I wanted that for all other brides out there, especially during this time, I want that for them.”

Update: After Tina’s photographer Madalyn heard what Tina was doing, she decided to offer up her dress as well. Tina has started a Facebook group for other brides interested in doing the same.

Credit: MVPHOTOS
Tina and Chris on their big day!
Mall of America & Artful Living Present: Curated Style Virtual Panel Online Event – Bloomington, MN

Mall of America & Artful Living Present: Curated Style Virtual Panel Online Event – Bloomington, MN

Please join us for a lively and honest discussion about the future of fashion from the comfort and safety of your home.
We’ll talk all things fashion, what it’s like designing in the age of COVID-19, what the future of the runway might look like and more!

As things are looking a little different this year for our annual Curated Style fashion show, we wanted to bring the experience to you with a virtual panel featuring: Christopher Straub, Korto Momolu, Mondo Guerra + Laura Schara, designers from Project Runway!

Reserve your spot: bit.ly/3lmHUWS

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