A scene from inside Brother Justus’s current whiskey cave/distillery. ___Brother Justus Whiskey, one of the oldest and smallest of Minnesota’s new wave of craft distilleries, is making moves, and taking concrete steps toward a building a bright new future in spirits here in the Twin Cities.…And by “bright new future,” we’re talking pretty literally. Since its founding in 2014, Brother Justus has produced around 2,000 gallons of locally aged whiskey each year from an underground distillery the size of, say, a three bedroom apartment. But in late June, Phil Steger, founder and CEO of the Minneapolis-based whiskey company, signed a new lease on a space in conjunction with Peter Remes of First & First, whose projects are home to 612 Brew, Lake Monster Brewing, and Norseman Distillery.
Brother Justus’s new place is seven times the size of its current one, and has actual windows.
Those panes overlook Columbia Park and Golf Course in northeast Minneapolis, and contain a distillery that measures nearly 14,000 square feet, and ups Brother Justus’s production capacity to nearly 40,000 proof gallons of whiskey per year – all marked shifts toward the present moment for a company who bears a made-up monk as its moniker.
“It is more important than ever that we contribute to positive change for our community, and invest in our values of justice, opportunity, and stewardship,” said Steger in a statement that cites the role COVID-19 and the death of George Floyd have played in changing the world. “The historical Brother Justus created opportunities for people facing tough times. And he held himself to the highest standards of craft and care for the well-being of others. We can’t do less.”
Phil Steger, founder and CEO of Brother Justus, in front of the distillery’s new home.
Architect and interior designer Aaron Wittkamper of Wittkamper Studio will play an integral role in transitioning Brother Justus’s lofty talk into a pragmatic, concrete embodiment of these values and choices.
Brother Justus’s new distillery will be open to the public, featuring a cocktail room proactively designed for social distancing, and that integrates full accessibility for individuals who live with mobility- and sight-related disabilities into the distillery aesthetics and experience. Additionally, the Benedictine monk-inspired spirit is proactively working to include people who face structural barriers to economic opportunity and employment in the jobs created by the new distillery.
“When we build places and businesses where each person is welcome, no matter who they are or how they get around, we create better experiences and richer environments for everyone,” underlined Steger.
But it’s not just new buildings the distillers are working on in the coming year: Brother Justus also has its sights set on releasing a new, cold-peated whiskey, to…
Thank you to our models: Frozaen Pissás, BE., Noah Lawrence-Holder, Raquelle, Puffy, Victor Samuels Farmah, Tatum Vanyo, Sterling Miller, Dom Dates, and New Black City dance group: Mimi Solis, Destiny Anderson, Zhane Jackson, Luis Nufio, Lydia Jones, and Mary Hayes.
Remember: The first Pride was a riot.
It wasn’t sponsored by Walmart and Coca Cola. Comcast didn’t wave a rainbow flag. There certainly wasn’t a Wells Fargo float.
That first Pride, in 1969, was an uprising led by queer people of color. It was a rebellion, and it began with a police raid on a New York City gay bar that was a home to many of the queer community’s most marginalized members: homeless youth, Black trans women. There were six nights of unrest. It was a turning point for the gay rights movement.
Plenty of people have been quick to condemn the protests that followed George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police. Burning buildings isn’t the “right” way to do it, they say. Smashing windows doesn’t “actually” do anything.
But the riots at Stonewall are just one example that shows: It works. So this year, to celebrate Pride, we’re taking a look back at some of the queer acts of civil and not-so-civil disobedience that have transformed the Twin Cities.
1.FREE and the fight to end workplace discrimination
Minneapolis becamethe first city in the country to pass a non-discrimination ordinance in 1975, thanks in part to Twin Cities activists—including members of the student group FREE (Fight Repression of Erotic Expression)—who had been advocating for fair employment practices for years.
One of FREE’s first major actions came in 1970, when the State Services Radio for the Blind fired a man named Thom Higgins after he told his boss he was gay. About 30 people picketed Higgins’s employer, in an act Minnesota Historical Society historian Noah Barth, who made a documentary about the radical queer student group, calls “somewhat revolutionary.”
“It’s coming a year now—a little under a year—after Stonewall. So pretty early on, but also, like, in Minnesota,” Barth says. There were other groups advocating for gay rights at the time, but not a lot of that work was happening in the Upper Midwest.
Even within FREE, Barth says, there was uncertainty about how to protest. The group had its “radical hippie types,” but also more moderate members of the gay establishment who thought it was better to go by the book: write petitions, study law, run for office. “They thought they would scare people with direct action.”
“They were trying to identify what a gay rights movement would look like,” Barth says. “It’s 1970. They’re defining it as they go. They know what other movements look like, but this is not like other movements… they were afraid of alienating a lot of the people that would contribute to their organization by doing something so public and so abrasive.”
But other public efforts toward ending job discrimination followed. For a campaign to bar anti-gay companies from recruiting at the U, FREE sent out letters to employers throughout Minnesota asking if they’d hire an openly gay person. One of those employers was Honeywell, which said: Nope. “They put so much pressure on… that eventually Honeywell yields,” Barth says.
And there was a rally for Mike McConnell, who married FREE president Jack Baker in 1971, making them the first legally married same-sex couple in the history of the United States. McConnell, who had been hired by the U of M libraries, had his offer rescinded by the board of regents when they found out. So FREE demonstrated again, this time in front of Morrill Hall.
That hall, it should be noted, has historically hosted powerful acts of dissent. In 1969, Black students occupied Morrill to protest institutional racism at the U, eventually leading to the founding of the African American and African Studies Department (one of the nation’s first). Most recently, it’s where students gathered to get Minneapolis Police off campus.
Anita Bryant, post-pie
2. The pie-ing of Anita Bryant
It’s one of the mostsatisfying two-minute clips on YouTube. Notorious anti-gay activist Anita Bryant is on a panel in Des Moines discussing her work to end protections for “the homosexuals.” Out of nowhere, a fruit pie flies across the screen, splattering all over her bigoted face.
This is in 1977, and the “Save Our Children” campaign is in full swing. The group wanted to overturn new laws around the nation protecting gay people from discrimination, and Bryant—a former beauty queen and Christian singer who was also the face of Florida Orange Juice—was its most prominent spokesperson. “She had a kind of celebrity that was very much tied to conservative, right Christians,” explains Kevin Murphy, one of the editors of Queer Twin Cities.
“At the center of their agenda was this idea that gay men, especially, would recruit children,” Murphy explains. “They can’t procreate by themselves, so they need to increase their numbers through recruitment.” (They were also early proponents of the whole, “if we let men marry each other, where does it end—with people marrying Saint Bernards?” line of thought.) Save Our Children was working to reverse ordinances around the country that protected gay rights, and with some success: They helped overturn a Miami-Dade County law that banned discrimination in areas like housing and employment.
One of the places Bryant targeted was St. Paul, which had passed civil protections on the basis of sexual preference in 1974. A Twin Cities gay rights group called the Target City Coalition didn’t love that. “They were radical in the way they protested—you could see the kind of street, performative politics… Target City Coalition believed in the kind of protesting that would get a lot of media attention and public attention through spectacle,” Murphy says. And what better way to do that than with pie?
“Pie-ing is spectacular, right?” Murphy laughs. “It’s an act that gets attention, it has some humor, there’s an element of camp. It’s in the tradition of throwing cream pie in people’s faces that comes from, like, the Three Stooges, and vaudeville. It’s made for media culture.”
Thom Higgins wasn’t just the poster boy for workplace non-discrimination… he’s also the activist who splattered Bryant with pie. Thom and co. did a few famous pie-ings—they pied the Catholic Archbishop of Minnesota, to somewhat mixed public reaction—but this one was huge.
“That clip was featured on Saturday Night Live, in the Weekend Update segment. It immediately got a lot of attention,” Murphy says. “And that clip, in the age of the internet, it’s circulated so widely that it’s become influential on its own.”
Again, there was concern within activist groups that the tactic was inadvisable, that embracing radical queer politics would turn people against their cause. And in fact, Save Our Children did manage to overturn protections for gay people in St. Paul.
“In the immediate sense, it was not successful,” Murphy said. “In the longer-term sense, though, it was very successful, in that if politics are debated and understood within the realm of popular culture, then finding ways to engage the media and popular culture in protest can be very effective.”
3. The creation of the Women’s Studies Department at the University of Minnesota
In the mid-1960s,Toni McNaron was a professor in the English Department at the U of M. It was a time of great protest—for the establishment of ethnic studies and women’s studies departments, against the Vietnam war—and there was a lot of talk about whether or not feminism needed to formally come to the university.
“That interested me, because I had been going to study groups, both lesbian and plain-old feminism, around the city with other people,” McNaron says today.
A group of grad students asked McNaron if she’d polish up their proposal to establish women’s studies at the university and take it to the academic powers in place. She gathered a few faculty members who were willing to help show the enthusiasm was there, and… it worked. Sort of.
“We got approved as a program,” McNaron says—but not as a department. “Now, what you need to know is that was how the university generally thought it could say ‘yes’ to something, but it would go away eventually because there wouldn’t be enough support.”
Students asked McNaron if she would be the first women’s studies… “person,” McNaron chuckles. “You couldn’t be called a chair, because you didn’t have a department.” They gave her a desk in a room in the college of liberal arts and “about a third of a secretary’s time.” And then, she began trying to find a list of dates for when she had to have course descriptions in.
“If there had not been incredible support by a lot of secretarial staff, we never would have made it past the first year.” McNaron says she would get phone calls saying the deadline had passed, but the secretaries wouldn’t tell anyone. “There were all these marvelous staff women who saw in this thing something that had to do with them.”
And the minute courses opened, they were full. Within two years the “program” became a department; in another two, it was allowed to have a major and a minor rather than a concentration. And shortly after that, it became the first non-coastal graduate women’s studies program in the country.
“What began to happen is the lesbian component of this bunch of people began understanding that it wasn’t enough to have just a week, or a book, or a couple of books—that there really needed to be something that began to raise more complicated issues,” McNaron says. At the time, she was still closeted. Not in her personal life; she’d meet with out groups to talk about and share ideas. “But at the university, I was petrified.”
When she taught “Introduction to Women’s Studies,” she’d refer to lesbians as “they.” But eventually, with the support of her friends (and after making the decision to get sober), she came out in front of a class.
“I have a feeling no more than about 15 of them even heard the difference when I said ‘lesbians, we,’” McNaron says. “But I heard the difference, and my friends heard the difference, and it was an incredibly important moment for me.” She started working to bring more queer ideas to campus, and told the English Department she wanted to teach lesbian literature.
McNaron was the first out professor at the university, followed shortly by Allan Spear, who became one of the first openly gay Americans in elected office in 1974. McNaron is now a professor emeritus of English at the U and the author of several books, including Poisoned Ivy—which is about lesbophobic and homophobic bullying in academia.
McDonald, left, and Minneapolis City Councilwoman Andrea Jenkins take selfies together at a 2016 fundraiser.Star Tribune
4. The Free CeCe Movement
The movement to free CeCe McDonald was a seminal moment in trans history and activism—not just in the Twin Cities, but around the world.
“I think one of the cool things about the CeCe McDonald story is… it really helped, I think, create some intersectionality between the Black Lives Matter movement and the trans rights movement,” says Minneapolis City Council member Andrea Jenkins, the first Black openly transgender woman elected to public office in the United States.
It was in June 2011, around midnight, and CeCe, a Black trans woman, was walking with friends to the Cub on East Lake Street. Outside of the Schooner Tavern—right by the Third Precinct, Jenkins notes—they encountered a group of people who hurled racist and transphobic slurs at them.
“They were pretty lit up. And they were white supremacists. I mean, one guy had a swastika tattooed on his chest,” Jenkins says. They started throwing punches; one slashed CeCe across the face.
At the time, CeCe was a fashion design student at MCTC, so she had a pair of scissors in her backpack—“not to mention that Black transgender women need to be able to protect themselves.” And, well. The man, Dean Schmitz, died of stab wounds to his chest.
“Literally, this is the same time George Zimmerman is on trial for claiming to ‘stand his ground’ against Trayvon Martin,” Jenkins explains. “It was literally the same time. But here in Minnesota, Mike Freeman, the county attorney who’s still county attorney now, said that CeCe had a duty to retreat.
CeCe was charged with two counts of second-degree murder. She was convicted of second-degree manslaughter and sentenced to 41 months. And she was sent to a men’s correctional facility in St. Cloud.
“But that sparked an international movement around trans rights,” Jenkins says. LGBTQ organizations around the country wrote letters to Mike Freeman in support of CeCe. One of the most famous trans people at the time, the revolutionary activist Leslie Feinberg, took up the cause, and was arrested for spray-painting “Free CeCe Now” on the Hennepin County Courthouse. Laverne Cox made a documentary about her struggle.
“CeCe led that,” Jenkins says. “From jail. She sparked her own movement.” And on January 13, 2014, she was released, after serving 19 months. (Cox was among those who greeted her at prison; she later says she envisioned her Orange Is the New Black character as an homage to CeCe.)
“CeCe was a survivor,” Jenkins says. “So far 15 trans women this year have not survived. They have been killed. Twenty-eight trans women last year. Twnety-six the year before that. The numbers just keep rising. One hundred and seventy-two trans people have been murdered since 2013, and 73 percent have been black. The violence is real.”
Black trans woman Iyanna Dior was just brutally beaten in St. Paul during the protests, as people stood around watching and filming the attack.
“The statement that Black Lives Matter—it has to be all Black lives,” Jenkins says. “Transgender people are Black lives. We have lots of work ahead of us.”
Scenes from the first Gay Pride Block PartyTom Sweeny
5.Gay Pride v.the City of Minneapolis
“It is hardly known —except by a few scholars and those who lived through the events—that in 1980 and 1981 a small group of determined persons in Minneapolis fought, and eventually won, the right to hold a Gay Pride block party on the city’s leading thoroughfare over the opposition of almost the entire Minneapolis political establishment.”
So civil liberties lawyer Norman Dorsen writes in the instantly grabbing preface to Jason Smith’s 2011 book Gay Pride v. The City of Minneapolis.
As Dorsen notes, the story is simple enough. Local gay rights organizations wanted to hold a parade on Hennepin. The city repeatedly denied their requests, even though other groups and businesses had been allowed to shut down the street for their causes and companies over the years. Activists went up against the city, and on Friday, June 26, 1981, following an “exhausting three-year struggle in a federal courtroom,” the city’s first Gay Pride Block Party was held.
“I was nervous that night, but also tremendously excited,” recalls Claude Peck, a Minneapolis-based writer and editor and Target City Coalition member who fought in favor of the party at the time. “After years when gay men gathered mainly in windowless gay bars, this giant celebration took place outside, on Hennepin, where the Aquatennial and dozens of other groups had been granted permits.”
Peck remembers that they didn’t have a ton of planning time between the favorable ruling and the event itself, which meant a lot of it was organized and publicized at the last minute. “I rented a flatbed truck, literally tied the punk band Urban Guerillas onto the back of it with their equipment, and drove around the corner from Fourth Street onto Hennepin Avenue in front of the Gay 90’s,” he says.
It sounds like a lot of fun, right? And it was! Peck remembers the crowd going wild, the music, the passionate speeches by Brad Golden of Target City Coalition and Matt Stark, the “pugnacious heterosexual MCLU director who by then had led several other landmark court fights for gay rights in Minnesota, often without the support of DFLers.” (In fact, it was the DFL-controlled Minneapolis City Council that had been blocking Block Party permits for years.)
But the event was a lot more than just a big party on Hennepin. In his book, Smith argues that this was a turning point in gay rights organizing in the Upper Midwest and a factor in shifting public attitudes about homosexuality and civil rights.
“On one side of the issue were Gay activists and their straight allies and supporters who wanted immediate recognition and support of their rights by society and its institutions of power,” Smith writes. “On the other side were City Council members who opposed any recognition of Gay rights, and conservative Gay leaders who favored a ‘go-slow’ approach that they hoped would, little by little, lead to greater acceptance of Gay men and Lesbians by society.”
As Peck puts it: “The party was also a precedent.”
Claude Peck
6. The quiet revolution of POC queer community-building
Something you’ll quickly notice about the written and recorded queer history of the Twin Cities is that it’s very, very white.
Jason Jackson remembers looking for Black queer history and talking to Stewart van Cleve, author of Land of 10,000 Loves: A History of Queer Minnesota. “Me being bold, I was like, ‘I’m kind of curious to know what were you able to find around Black queer history in the Twin Cities?’ And he was like, ‘Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of information.’”
Jackson, who’s now a Diversity and Inclusion Consultant at HealthPartners, knew that just because the information wasn’t readily available, that didn’t mean it didn’t exist. So he started looking into the hidden Black queer history of the Twin Cities, digging into the archives and hunting down old news stories. Eventually, he put together a project called “Unheard Voices: Black LGBT History in the Twin Cities.” (It’s available today in the U of M’s Tretter Collection in Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender Studies.)
“I started to ask myself the question: What is Black, queer Minnesota? What are the stories I wouldn’t know about the place I now call home?” Jackson asks. “Where are their faces? Where are their voices? Where were they?”
Jackson explains that much of Minnesota’s early Black queer organizing is the kind of stuff that didn’t make it into periodicals. “These organizations may have not had 501c3s, you know?” Jackson explains. “They were kitchen-table organizations. Who’s going to give us a 501c3 for Black Pride in the ’80s?” They were more like social support networks, fundraising and hosting events, sure, but also lifting each other up and making one another feel heard.
One of those groups was Taranga, which became a space for Black queer men just to be in community with each other. Black men were still targets of discrimination within the gay community in the late ’80s and early ’90s (and, let’s be honest, are to this day). Jackson heard from men who were routinely asked to show three pieces of ID to get into gay bars, who were hassled in ways their white counterparts weren’t.
There was also the organization Men of Color, which Jackson describes as “the welcome wagon”—if you were a gay person of color who moved to town in the ’90s, they’d know about it, and make sure someone reached out, came to visit, made you feel part of the community.
Then there was the group Women of Color Stirfry. “It was social and philanthropical, in a way,” recalls Stirfry’s Rosanna Hudgins. “We wanted to give back to community… it was a way to connect with other queer folks of color, and we tried to give back to community in whatever way we could.”
Some of those donations went toward producing My Girlfriend Did It , a groundbreaking film produced by Casa de Esperanza that’s one of the first training videos on on woman-to-woman intimate partner violence. Hudgins was also the statewide coordinator for same-sex domestic violence for the Minnesota Coalition Against Sexual Assault—the only person of color on the staff—and the video has been lauded for its focus on racial diversity and lesbian point of view in 1995. Hudgins is also responsible for bringing Audre Lorde to speak at a women’s studies conference at the U.
This kind of activism doesn’t have the spectacle of tossing a pie in someone’s face, doesn’t have the flair of a parade down Hennepin. Black activists in the movement’s early days had to work within systems that were safe, that worked for them. Because to even be queer and a person of color is radical.
“I remember segregation,” says Hudgins. Growing up in Kansas City, “We were taught as kids, if we were playing outside, if you saw a bunch of white people coming your way to split and run. Kids would disappear. Adults would disappear. They’d turn up dead somewhere.”
“Queer black people and queer people of color—having to push up against racism within the queer community, and homo- and transphobia within all communities—we always find ways to take care of ourselves and each other,” Jackson says. “It feels really authentic, it feels like when I ask you how are you, I actually mean how are you? It means I’m going to take care of you, because I see you in myself.”
“It’s not going to get on the cover of Time magazine, and that’s okay. That’s not the point. The point is to survive.”
Iron Shoe Farm sold mangalitsa hogs, muscovy duck, edible flowers, and microgreens to 25-50 restaurants in the Twin Cities, depending on the year. Megan Dobratz / Native Sustainability
When we met Carla Mertz at the end of February, business was great. The Iron Shoe Farm owner sold mangalitsa hogs, Hereford beef, Muscovy duck, cooperatively farmed local rabbit, edible flowers, and microgreens to 25 restaurants in the Twin Cities. Her clients included some of the metro’s top, chef-driven destinations: Tilia, the Bungalow Club, Young Joni, the Woman’s Club of Minneapolis, and Fhima’s, to name a few. Iron Shoe also had two hogs bound for this year’s Minneapolis stop of Cochon555, and was set to debut a new dinner on the farm series this month. The first three events had already sold out.
“Then COVID-19 hit and we immediately lost 90 percent of our business model. We were watching the news and they said restaurants are closed until, you know, that first date, and my stomach sank. And I had the thought process of ‘I think I’m going to throw up.’”
“We really had to learn how to adapt and shift really quickly,” she says, now. “In a matter of, like, two hours the crap hit the fan.”
With her restaurant clients on life support (if they were operational at all), Cochon555 postponed indefinitely, and those dinner on the farm events tentatively pushed until May, Mertz was staring at 100 hungry hogs that needed to go somewhere, and tens of thousands of dollars worth of microgreens – the farm’s tiny cash crop, which sell by the hundreds each week at summer’s peak – spoiling quickly.
Contrasting dire reports of farmers across Minnesota smashing eggs, killing off livestock prematurely, and dumping produce due to lack of demand, Mertz kept a cool head.
“With microgreens, they’re perishable; we can’t just let them keep growing,” explained Mertz. “We could’ve given them to our chickens, but they’re a food source, so instead I dropped them off at Hope Breakfast Bar… [and] to Justin Sutherland at Public Kitchen when they were doing their community open door pantry. We lost $16,000 worth of that product category alone.”
Beyond the shock of change itself, seeing such large figures go poof is scary no matter the industry. Mertz has just come up on the seven-year anniversary of purchasing the farm 50 miles north of Minneapolis, after a professional departure from 20 years in high-end luxury design. Those seemingly disparate professional worlds, the first-generation farmer says, both depend on human connection and a willingness to network.
With her spring plans devastated, Mertz hustled to set up an online store on Iron Shoe’s website. Building this “pantry” involved securing a bevy of licenses from the state, all so she could act almost like a digital general store. Products range from flour, syrup, and cheeses, to proteins like rabbits, lamb, duck, and more – drawn from a waiting list of 50 Minnesota farms deep, all in situations like her own. There’s even a “Buy a Pack Give a Pack” option available in customizable sizes, that lets buyers take home half a CSA share’s worth of consumables, while the other portion is sent to Sherburne County’s Caer Food Shelf.
Spent grain from Lupulin Brewing feeds Iron Shoe’s livestock.Megan Dobratz / Native Sustainability
The quick pivot to online proved mutually beneficial. Mertz was able to recoup what would have otherwise been losses for Iron Shoe, including those Cochon hogs, while providing neighboring farms a platform to sell their products, too.
Mertz is quick to recognize how precarious people are feeling right now, especially related to food. “You see people posting about what’s going on with some of the larger Smithfields and Cargills now closing, and it causes a sense of panic because it’s like, ‘These big places are closing, how are we going to get our food?’”
She says she issues the same advice as always to those folks: Buy local.
“I look at it as: If you’re in Minnesota, do the best you can to buy products that are from our state. It’s going to help so many people. There’s wealth in neighborhood.”
And if you’re entirely lost, she says Minnesota Grown is a fantastic resource for those interested in buying from ‘local farmers’ intheory, but who may not know how to do it. For 2020, their online directory has 81 CSA members and 994 browseable listings, which makes buying local more approachable from a digital distance than ever before.
“A key tool Minnesota Grown has been able to offer in helping customers connect statewide is our map of farms/markets with products available direct-to-the customer, as well as a CSA-specific map with pick-up location filter,” said the org’s member service coordinator Karen Lanthier.
“These maps are able to be filtered by location, so people can narrow-in on the farms/markets nearest them, and we’ve been sharing our ’What’s In Season’ guide so customers know when different types of fruits and vegetables will be becoming ready.”
With the growing season ramping up, and many farms already at CSA capacity based on last year’s sales, Lanthier told City Pages she’s also seeing a turn toward smaller, local-based purchasing from consumers. “We’ve heard anecdotally from other producers – with items like eggs, meat, dried beans, grains/flour, and seeds – who are seeing a greater-than-usual interest and sales this year compared to last year at this time.”
As Iron Shoe’s new online pantry comes into its own, connecting shoppers with precisely the products Lanthier mentioned, and the restaurant world reboots itself, Mertz is finding her legs in a new field – one that’s even more interwoven with the farming community.
“I think [the store] gives other farmers hope that there’s a module out there that they can learn from.”
Same buttery scenery, no “Mia, the Butter Maiden.” Land O’Lakes announced the change without mentioning her absence.Land O’Lakes
We wouldn’t blame you if you didn’t notice anything different about Land O’Lakes.
It still tastes the same. It still comes in that rectangular four-pack, decorated with the crystal-blue lake and that butter-yellow sky you’re used to.
But something’s missing: “Mia,” Land O’Lakes’ braided, buckskin-wearing “Butter Maiden” mascot, depicted sitting and proffering dairy products for nearly a century. It’s as if one day she just stood up and walked away.
This “butter with olive oil” package from 2009 includes the company’s mascot, Mia.Land O’Lakes
Mia had appeared on the Arden Hills-based co-op’s packaging since 1928, when she was first dreamed up by a St. Paul advertising firm. In the 1950s, she got a redesign by Patrick DesJarlait, the same prolific Ojibwe artist from Red Lake who designed the Hamm’s Brewery bear.
In February, the Fortune 500 company announced the package redesign, highlighting its farmer-owned history with photos of actual Land O’Lakes farmers. It failed to mention where Mia had gone. Minnesota Reformer, which noticed the change earlier this week, also points out she’s been scrubbed from the company’s website.
When City Pages reached out for comment, Land O’Lakes declined to respond to questions about Mia, outside of a link to the company’s February press release and to an article about the farmer-centric rebranding in Fortune.
Mia didn’t exist in a vacuum. Americana is saturated in portrayals of Native people, usually by corporations in an attempt to sell things to white people. Depending on how each image was deployed, they came to be industrial symbols of integrity, or oneness with nature, or at their skeeviest, sexual purity.
As Adrienne Keene, a professor at Brown University and the creator of the popular Native Appropriations Blog, told the Reformer, this is a “great move” for a lot of Native folks who have been forced to watch companies use cartoonish visions of their culture to sell butter, cigarettes, and motorcycles.
Meanwhile, Minnesota Lt. Gov. Peggy Flanagan, who is a citizen of the White Earth Nation of Ojibwe, praised the decision on Wednesday.
“Native people are not mascots or logos,” she tweeted. “We are very much still here.”
Land O’Lakes quietly gets rid of iconic Indian maiden mascot – Minnesota Reformer
For nearly a century, the Land O’Lakes Indian maiden has kneeled by the side of a blue lake holding out an offering of a 4-stick box of butter. No more. The Minnesota-based farmer cooperative…
minnesotareformer.com
In its press release, a vice president for Land O’Lakes cited “research” showing consumers “care about farmers,” which is why the the company is “extending that farmer-owned story to our packaging… arguably our most direct vehicle to communicate with consumers.”
That explains what Land O’Lakes is changing to, but without acknowledging what it’s changing from—arguably one of the more recognizable labels in the grocery store. To Keene, it’s a missed opportunity.
“It could have been a very strong and positive message to have publicly said, ‘We realized after a hundred years that our image was harmful and so we decided to remove it,” Keene said. “In our current cultural moment, that’s something people would really respond to.”
When we started writing a special issue encouraging people to get out of their homes, it was… still safe for people to get out of their homes. The idea that our city, our country—the world—would go into lockdown to prevent a pandemic?
It seemed impossible. In many ways, it still does. Experts say we might be avoiding concerts and movie theaters and crowds of any kind until the summer (at least) to curb the spread of COVID-19. But there’s one thing we don’t need to avoid: the great outdoors.
“I think outdoor space… I think being outside will be really crucial through this period—getting fresh air, getting exercise,” Mass General physician Daniel Horn, who’s leading a team that’s strategizing to combat coronavirus, told the Atlantic. Minnesota State Parks are staying open (even if some buildings are closed). “Now is a great time to get outdoors,” said state DNR commissioner Sarah Strommen. “Parks are a great place to do some social distancing and enjoy the health benefits of nature.”
Don’t do anything that makes you feel unsafe; maintain distance between your hiking or bikepacking partners; and for the love of mother nature, don’t take a trek with friends if you feel sick. But when the blinds on your windows start to feel like bars on a cage, we hope this issue will help you find a place to escape, even if it’s temporary.
“Nature is still there,” Minnesota’s DNR tweeted earlier this week. “You can be too.”